Elevation: 7,337 ft
GPS: 39.961, -105.289 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 755,896 total · 3,037/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This section of the Flatirons holds some of the best climbing in the Flatirons, but it seems to be less crowded. For the purposes of this organization, this section extends from Bear Canyon to Eldorado Canyon. Great rocks such as the Maiden, Matron, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Seal Rock, and the Goose offer lower end difficulty climbs for beginner trad leaders and also more challenging trad lines. Excellent sport routes also can be found, some several pitches in length. The longest line in the area can be found here. There is plenty to explore here.

Getting There

The approaches vary depending on where you're headed. For rocks like the Matron, take the South Mesa Trail head from the open space park on the way to Eldorado Canyon SP off CO Hwy 170. Otherwise, N. Shanahan trail from Table Mesa or Fern Canyon via the Mesa Trail from NCAR. See specific routes for exact directions.

Access

Various of the Flatirons are closed for falcon nesting from Feb 1 up to July 31 and for bat nesting Apr 1 to Aug 31. Historically, some of these in this area have included The Matron, Towers of the Moon, Jam Crack Spire, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Jaws, The Fin, Fern Canyon, The Goose, The Goose Eggs, and possibly others.

407 Total Climbs

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Location: South Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 216
East Face North Side/Seal Rock
Trad 4 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 70
East Face/Fatiron
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 114
North Face
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 194
North Face
Trad 5 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 121
East Ridge
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 53
West Overhang
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 77
Just Another Boy's Climb
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 80
Shalohsh
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 174
Undertow
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 80
Boys with Power Toys
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 55
Film Noir
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 64
Snake Watching
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 105
Pumpy Overhang
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 61
Steep Face
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 46
Choose Life
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Face North Side/Seal Rock Seal Rock
 216
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 4 pitches
East Face/Fatiron Fatiron
 70
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
North Face Matron
 114
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
North Face Maiden
 194
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 5 pitches
East Ridge Maiden
 121
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
West Overhang Maiden
 53
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Just Another Boy's Climb Slab
 77
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Shalohsh Slab
 80
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Undertow Slab
 174
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Boys with Power Toys Slab
 80
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Film Noir Slab
 55
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Snake Watching Overhang Rock
 64
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Pumpy Overhang Slab
 105
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Steep Face Slab
 61
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Choose Life Seal Rock
 46
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in South »

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