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Areas in South

Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings, West Face 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Apostle, The 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Bongo Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Chimera 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Cubicle Crag 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Damascus 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Devil's Advocate 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Devil's Horns 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Devil's Pinkie (AKA South Pinnacle) 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Devil's Thumb 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Fatiron 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Fern Canyon 49 / 24 / 5 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 69
First Advisor 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Flying Flatiron 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Forgotten Flatiron aka Icarus 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Goose, The 8 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Harmon Flatironette 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Harmon's East 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Isolation Rock 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Jamcrack Spire 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Keel, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Lost And Found 4 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Madein Boulder 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Maiden, The 12 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Major Maroon Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Matron, The 13 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Medusa 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Overhang Rock 6 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Pegasus 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Penguin, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Poot Ridge 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Pup, The 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Pyramid 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Rudder, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Saqqara 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Seal Rock 8 / 10 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 18
Second Advisor 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Shadowfax 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Shanahan Crag 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Sibling, The 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Slab, The 10 / 19 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
Sphinx, The 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Sunset Wall 12 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Terrain Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Third Advisor 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Tiny Tower 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Toddler Rock 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Tower Of The Moon 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Unknown Rock 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Upper Blues Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
X Crack Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 7,337 ft
GPS: 39.961, -105.289 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 275,377 total, 1,336/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This section of the Flatirons holds some of the best climbing in the Flatirons, but it seems to be less crowded. For the purposes of this organization, this section extends from Bear Canyon to Eldorado Canyon. Great rocks such as the Maiden, Matron, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Seal Rock, and the Goose offer lower end difficulty climbs for beginner trad leaders and also more challenging trad lines. Excellent sport routes also can be found, some several pitches in length. The longest line in the area can be found here. There is plenty to explore here.
Subject to Seasonal Closures Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

The approaches vary depending on where you're headed. For rocks like the Matron, take the South Mesa Trail head from the open space park on the way to Eldorado Canyon SP off CO Hwy 170. Otherwise, N. Shanahan trail from Table Mesa or Fern Canyon via the Mesa Trail from NCAR. See specific routes for exact directions.

Access

Various of the Flatirons are closed for falcon nesting from Feb 1 up to July 31 and for bat nesting Apr 1 to Aug 31. Historically, some of these in this area have included The Matron, Towers of the Moon, Jam Crack Spire, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Jaws, The Fin, Fern Canyon, The Goose, The Goose Eggs, and possibly others.

343 Total Climbs

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Location: South Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Face North Side/Seal Rock
Trad 4 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Face/Fatiron
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
East Ridge
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Face
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
North Face
Trad 5 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
East Ridge
Trad 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
South Crack
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
West Overhang
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Just Another Boy's Climb
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Undertow
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boys with Power Toys
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Snake Watching
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
$00pr kr33m
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
s00kr33m
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Choose Life
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Face North Side/Seal Rock Seal Rock 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 4 pitches
East Face/Fatiron Fatiron 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
East Ridge Matron 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
North Face Matron 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
North Face Maiden 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 5 pitches
East Ridge Maiden 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
South Crack Maiden 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
West Overhang Maiden 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Just Another Boy's Climb Slab 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Undertow Slab 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Boys with Power Toys Slab 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Snake Watching Overhang Rock 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
$00pr kr33m Slab 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
s00kr33m Slab 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Choose Life Seal Rock 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in South »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
One application has been submitted for the current (January 2014) cycle of the Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review Committee application process: on the west face of the Goose.

You can visit flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo… to view it; please post comments below the application or submit them via email to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org. The public vote and meeting will be held Wednesday, February 5, at 6:30 p.m. at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado. Jan 7, 2014
One application has been submitted for the current cycle of the Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review Committee application process: on the west face of Overhang Rock.

You can visit flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo… to view it; please post comments below the application or submit them via email to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org. The public meeting and vote will be held Wednesday, September 18, 6:30 p.m., at The Spot gym in Boulder, Colorado. Aug 19, 2013
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome. Apr 27, 2013
There is an application for a second proposed new climb on the south face of Seal Rock, the final application for the autumn 2012 cycle of the Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council (www.flatironsclimbing.com), which closes January 1, 2013. Details can be found at the link below.The public meeting and vote will be held 6:30 p.m. Wednesday January 16 at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado.

The application for this route, American Nouveau, can be found at:
flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo… Dec 12, 2012
A second application has been submitted for the Autumn 2012 cycle of the Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review Committee, this one for the west face of Overhang Rock. Please visit flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo… to view the application in full, as well as comment on it. The public meeting and vote will be held 6:30 p.m. Wednesday January 16 at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado. Nov 23, 2012
There is an application for a new climb on the south face of Seal Rock, the first application for the autumn 2012 cycle of the Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council (www.flatironsclimbing.com). Details can be found at the link below; the public meeting and vote will be held some time early next year, details to be announced. This cycle closes January 1, 2013, though applications should be submitted well in advance.

The application can be found at:
flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo… Sep 10, 2012
Please note that the application for the Hueco Wall, south face of the Maiden, has been updated to include a possible third pitch, which would have been brought up at the public meeting in any case. You can still view and comment on the application at flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo…

The public vote and meeting is September 5, 6:30 p.m. at The Spot gym in Boulder, Colorado. Aug 19, 2012
There is an application for a new climb on the south side of the Maiden, our only application for the August 2012 cycle of the Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council. Details can be found at the link below; the public meeting and vote will be held Wednesday, September 5 at 6:30 p.m. at The Spot gym (thespotgym.com), Boulder, Colorado. The deadline for the next cycle is January 1, 2013, though applications should be submitted in advance if possible.

flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo… Aug 6, 2012
As of today, July 24, the fire-closure boundaries have been moved west from the Mesa Trail, allowing access to many of the formations formerly affected by the Flagstaff Fire closure. More info and an updated closure map here from OSMP: bouldercolorado.gov/index.p…

A reminder to everyone to stay well clear of the closure and burn areas as you head back in to climb. Enjoy! Jul 24, 2012
The Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council will hold its public meeting Wednesday, July 6, at 7 p.m. at The Spot Gym, Boulder, Colorado, to discuss and vote on applications for the June 2011 cycle. Anyone interested is invited to come participate and cast votes for the three proposals (two of which are on the Slab), which can be found here: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo….
You can also leave comments on the proposed applications at the above link. Jun 24, 2011
The Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council will hold its public meeting Wednesday, October 20, at 6 p.m. at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado, to discuss and vote on applications for the autumn 2010 cycle. Anyone interested is invited to come participate and cast votes for the three proposals, which can be found here: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo… Oct 12, 2010
True that! But you can stand on a little perch at 50 feet and catch your breath.... Jun 14, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
This pitch is simply too long. A line must be drawn somewhere. :) Jun 14, 2010
June 2010 new-route application through the Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review Committee: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo…

Please click on the above link to submit comments on the proposed climb. The deadline closes June 15; this is the only route submitted this cycle. There will be a public meeting held June 23, Wednesday, at 7:30 p.m. at The Spot gym, Boulder. Jun 14, 2010

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