Areas in South
Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings
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Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings, West Face
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Apostle, The
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Bongo Boulder
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Chimera
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Cubicle Crag
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Damascus
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Devil's Advocate
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11
Devil's Horns
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Devil's Pinkie (AKA South Pinnacle)
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Devil's Thumb
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Fatiron
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Fern Canyon
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118
First Advisor
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Flying Flatiron
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Forgotten Flatiron aka Icarus
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Goose, The
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Harmon Flatironette
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Harmon's East
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Isolation Rock
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Jamcrack Spire
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Keel, The
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Lost And Found
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Love and Marriage Boulder, The
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Madein Boulder
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Maiden, The
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Major Maroon Boulder
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Matron, The
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17
Medusa
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2
Overhang Rock
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18
Passed Over Boulder
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Pegasus
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7
Penguin, The
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Pine Tree Boulder
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Poot Ridge
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Pup, The
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Pyramid
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2
Rudder, The
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Saqqara
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Seal Rock
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28
Second Advisor
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Shadowfax
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Shanahan Crag
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Sibling, The
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Slab, The
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34
Sphinx, The
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11
Sunset Wall
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12
Terrain Boulders (aka Droegerland)
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Third Advisor
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Tiny Tower
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Toddler Rock
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Tower Of The Moon
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Unknown Rock
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Upper Blues Boulders
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7
X Crack Boulder (The Kid Boulder?)
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2
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: | 7,337 ft | 2,236 m |
GPS: |
39.9611, -105.289 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
|
Page Views: | 996,169 total · 3,458/month | |
Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July:
The Goose
Goose Eggs
East Ridge
Mars Block
Nebel Horn
Tower of the Moon
Jamcrack Spire
The Pyramid
Incognito Crag
Devil's Thumb
Shadow Fax
Isolation Rock
Sunset Wall
Devil's Wing (W. Face)
The Matron
Lost & Found
The Sibling
Toddler Rock
Sphinx
Medusa
Details bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl…
In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome.
The Goose
Goose Eggs
East Ridge
Mars Block
Nebel Horn
Tower of the Moon
Jamcrack Spire
The Pyramid
Incognito Crag
Devil's Thumb
Shadow Fax
Isolation Rock
Sunset Wall
Devil's Wing (W. Face)
The Matron
Lost & Found
The Sibling
Toddler Rock
Sphinx
Medusa
Details bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl…
In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome.
Description
This section of the Flatirons holds some of the best climbing in the Flatirons, but it seems to be less crowded. For the purposes of this organization, this section extends from Bear Canyon to Eldorado Canyon. Great rocks such as the Maiden, Matron, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Seal Rock, and the Goose offer lower end difficulty climbs for beginner trad leaders and also more challenging trad lines. Excellent sport routes also can be found, some several pitches in length. The longest line in the area can be found here. There is plenty to explore here.
Getting There
The approaches vary depending on where you're headed. For rocks like the Matron, take the South Mesa Trail head from the open space park on the way to Eldorado Canyon SP off CO Hwy 170. Otherwise, N. Shanahan trail from Table Mesa or Fern Canyon via the Mesa Trail from NCAR. See specific routes for exact directions.
Access
Various of the Flatirons are closed for falcon nesting from Feb 1 up to July 31 and for bat nesting Apr 1 to Aug 31. Historically, some of these in this area have included The Matron, Towers of the Moon, Jam Crack Spire, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Jaws, The Fin, Fern Canyon, The Goose, The Goose Eggs, and possibly others.
Classic Climbing Routes at South
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● East Face North Side/Seal Rock | Seal Rock |
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 4 pitches | |
● North Face | Maiden |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 5 pitches | |
● East Ridge | Maiden |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches | |
● West Overhang | Maiden |
|
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches | |
● Just Another Boy's Climb | Slab |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad | |
● Undertow | Slab |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | |
● Film Noir | Slab |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | |
● DK Superstar | Shanahan Crag |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | |
● Snake Watching | Overhang Rock |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | |
● $00pr kr33m | Slab |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | |
● Whipped Cream | Slab |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | |
● s00kr33m | Slab |
|
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport | |
● Primate | Seal Rock |
|
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport | |
● Super Tuscan | Seal Rock |
|
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport | |
● Choose Life | Seal Rock |
|
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport |
Weather Averages
High
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Low
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Precip
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Days w Precip
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Prime Climbing Season
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
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