Elevation: 7,337 ft
GPS: 39.9611, -105.289
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 991,883 total · 3,688/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This section of the Flatirons holds some of the best climbing in the Flatirons, but it seems to be less crowded. For the purposes of this organization, this section extends from Bear Canyon to Eldorado Canyon. Great rocks such as the Maiden, Matron, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Seal Rock, and the Goose offer lower end difficulty climbs for beginner trad leaders and also more challenging trad lines. Excellent sport routes also can be found, some several pitches in length. The longest line in the area can be found here. There is plenty to explore here.

Getting There

The approaches vary depending on where you're headed. For rocks like the Matron, take the South Mesa Trail head from the open space park on the way to Eldorado Canyon SP off CO Hwy 170. Otherwise, N. Shanahan trail from Table Mesa or Fern Canyon via the Mesa Trail from NCAR. See specific routes for exact directions.

Access

Various of the Flatirons are closed for falcon nesting from Feb 1 up to July 31 and for bat nesting Apr 1 to Aug 31. Historically, some of these in this area have included The Matron, Towers of the Moon, Jam Crack Spire, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Jaws, The Fin, Fern Canyon, The Goose, The Goose Eggs, and possibly others.

443 Total Climbs

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Location: South Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 247
East Face North Side/Seal Rock
Trad 4 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 78
East Face/Fatiron
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 128
North Face
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 215
North Face
Trad 5 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 129
East Ridge
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 55
West Overhang
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 95
Just Another Boy's Climb
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 80
Family Man
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 216
Undertow
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 103
Boys with Power Toys
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 65
Film Noir
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 76
Snake Watching
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 128
$00pr kr33m
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 68
s00kr33m
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 59
Super Tuscan
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Face North Side/Seal Rock Seal Rock
 247
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 4 pitches
East Face/Fatiron Fatiron
 78
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
North Face Matron
 128
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
North Face Maiden
 215
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 5 pitches
East Ridge Maiden
 129
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
West Overhang Maiden
 55
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Just Another Boy's Climb Slab
 95
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Family Man Slab
 80
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Undertow Slab
 216
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Boys with Power Toys Slab
 103
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Film Noir Slab
 65
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Snake Watching Overhang Rock
 76
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
$00pr kr33m Slab
 128
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
s00kr33m Slab
 68
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Super Tuscan Seal Rock
 59
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in South »

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