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South Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in South

Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 4

Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings, West Face 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Apostle, The 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Bongo Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Chimera 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Cubicle Crag 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Damascus 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Devil's Advocate 6 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

Devil's Horns 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Devil's Pinkie (AKA South Pinnacle) 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Devil's Thumb 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Fatiron 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Fern Canyon 60 / 26 / 6 / 38 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 114

First Advisor 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

Flying Flatiron 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Forgotten Flatiron aka Icarus 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Goose, The 9 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16

Harmon Flatironette 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Harmon's East 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Isolation Rock 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Jamcrack Spire 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Keel, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Lost And Found 5 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Love and Marriage Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Madein Boulder 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Maiden, The 12 / 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18

Major Maroon Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Matron, The 13 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16

Medusa 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Overhang Rock 8 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 18

Pegasus 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Penguin, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Poot Ridge 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Pup, The 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Pyramid 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Rudder, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Saqqara 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Seal Rock 8 / 20 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28

Second Advisor 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Shadowfax 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Shanahan Crag 19 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 25

Sibling, The 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Slab, The 11 / 20 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34

Sphinx, The 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 11

Sunset Wall 12 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12

Terrain Boulders (aka Droegerland) 0 / 0 / 0 / 26 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26

Third Advisor 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

Tiny Tower 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Toddler Rock 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Tower Of The Moon 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Unknown Rock 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Upper Blues Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

X Crack Boulder (The Kid Boulder?) 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Elevation:	7,337 ft
GPS:	39.9611, -105.289 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	991,883 total · 3,633/month
Shared By:	Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Closures Details

The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July:

The Goose
Goose Eggs
East Ridge
Mars Block
Nebel Horn
Tower of the Moon
Jamcrack Spire
The Pyramid
Incognito Crag
Devil's Thumb
Shadow Fax
Isolation Rock
Sunset Wall
Devil's Wing (W. Face)
The Matron
Lost & Found
The Sibling
Toddler Rock
Sphinx
Medusa

Details bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl…

In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome.

Description

This section of the Flatirons holds some of the best climbing in the Flatirons, but it seems to be less crowded. For the purposes of this organization, this section extends from Bear Canyon to Eldorado Canyon. Great rocks such as the Maiden, Matron, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Seal Rock, and the Goose offer lower end difficulty climbs for beginner trad leaders and also more challenging trad lines. Excellent sport routes also can be found, some several pitches in length. The longest line in the area can be found here. There is plenty to explore here.

Getting There

The approaches vary depending on where you're headed. For rocks like the Matron, take the South Mesa Trail head from the open space park on the way to Eldorado Canyon SP off CO Hwy 170. Otherwise, N. Shanahan trail from Table Mesa or Fern Canyon via the Mesa Trail from NCAR. See specific routes for exact directions.

Access

Various of the Flatirons are closed for falcon nesting from Feb 1 up to July 31 and for bat nesting Apr 1 to Aug 31. Historically, some of these in this area have included The Matron, Towers of the Moon, Jam Crack Spire, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Jaws, The Fin, Fern Canyon, The Goose, The Goose Eggs, and possibly others.

444 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 252 ● East Face North Side/Seal Rock Trad 4 pitches Seal Rock
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 79 ● East Face/Fatiron Trad 3 pitches Fatiron
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 128 ● North Face Trad 3 pitches Matron
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R 218 ● North Face Trad 5 pitches Maiden
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 130 ● East Ridge Trad 5 pitches Maiden
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 56 ● West Overhang Trad 2 pitches Maiden
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 97 ● Just Another Boy's Climb Trad Slab
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 84 ● Family Man Sport Slab
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 221 ● Undertow Sport Slab
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 106 ● Boys with Power Toys Sport Slab
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 65 ● Film Noir Sport Slab
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 80 ● Snake Watching Sport Overhang Rock
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 131 ● $00pr kr33m Sport Slab
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c 70 ● s00kr33m Sport Slab
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 62 ● Super Tuscan Sport Seal Rock