Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Team Full-Core Radness
Page Views: 10,620 total · 116/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jun 16, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


73 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

s00pr kr33m is the long, overhanging, Your Mother-looking headwall pitch about halfway along the broad west face between Whipping Post and Undertow. It climbs more or less directly above the right side of the large bird-guano arch at ground level. From the ledge, you can see it go over a small roof, up the face into a small, right-facing corner, then up onto very steep, purple stone.

To begin, you can either lead up the moderate (5.7) lower wall, right of the arch, on gear (blue and yellow TCUs, a stopper or two) to get to the ledge, or solo this portion. If you lead it, perhaps tie into both ends of the rope, and then drop the one you lead this lower bit on once you clip the first bolt, to avoid drag issues. Alternately, you can walk left (north) out the ledge from Undertow with your rope, then drop it down to a belayer on the ground. Beware some shaley-type choss along the ledge.

70-METER ROPE MANDATORY in either case.

Once you're all settled in at the first bolt, climb up and left into an open, sorta crumbly corner, then over the rooflet (5.11) to a small stance. Look up and out at the seven bolts of climbing that remain -- way steep!

We figured the climbing got just a notch harder with every subsequent clip; as the angle steepens, the pump builds, and the moves get harder and harder until you hit distinctive, bouldery cruxes passing the eighth and ninth bolts. Think: Rifle-style footwork jessery, big, soapy pinches, and power.

Double-bolts with chains just over the lip get you back to the ground, or jump off onto the last bolt for a fun-ass victory whipper.

I've heard ratings thrown around anywhere from 12d to 13b. So, umm, err, "Boulder 12d." If you get the Beta right, this thing is a powerful, Arsenal-style jug haul; if you get the Beta wrong, it's a mega-sad-super-bouter flailfest.

Location

This is on West face of the Slab, about halfway between Whipping Post and Undertow.

Protection

10 bolts. Use extendo draws or shoulder slings on the lower three bolts. Metolius #2 and #1 TCUs, a few nuts.

Photos

Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This route is truly amazing for being a fairly new route. I got talked into going up to try this "new 13" with Dan Levison and needless to say I was very very impressed when we got there. It's a very high climb with spectacular position, great movements, and a bouldery, powerful crux way up high. What was really cool about the route is it didn't seem necessary to warm up on something else first.(And I'm not usually one to jump right on a 5.13). The climbing is easy to start and progressively gets harder the higher you go with the crux being a very distinct and powerful bouldery section. You will know your there when you go from being totally chill to instantly pumped in what seems like a single move. Getting up into the undercling is crux number one and the moves after it is crux number two. I have been working the route for a couple of weeks (I finally sent!) and have watched a lot of people trying the route. EVERYONE seems to do the crux section differently. If you make it past both cruxes, you will feel like a kid on Christmas morning when you hit the final jug haul to the anchors. They are huge, hand swallowing, textured holds with some good spacing which still requires a little bit of juice in between. All the clips are easy. When I was working the route, we had more or less long runners on the first two bolts (thanks, Alkaitis and Dorsey) which you can easily unclip after clipping the next bolt to reduce rope drag. If your belayer stands directly below the massive roof at the base of the climb and the climber unclips the first 2 bolts, the rope line is completely straight and there is NO rope drag whatsoever. Overall, a great route and I thank the FA party for putting it up. This is now my new favorite route in the Boulder area, and the climbing is comparable to the long and amazing sport climbs of Dinosaur Rock. Oh yeah, make sure to take the victory whip for me, since I forgot to jump off at the top after my send. It looks super fun, clean and some serious big air if you skip the last clip at the jug, climb a few more feet to the anchors, and then jump off. This would be a "Motherlode" style whip.......Enjoy
  • * Note for the start - tie in at the bottom, walk 40 feet uphill, and scramble up the the 4th/5th class section with good holds to the left side of the Undertow ledge. From here, you can walk across the ledge back to the top of the climb where you can comfortably clip the first bolt. The ledge has some loose, chossy, and rotten bands of rock, but overall it is very easy and you have good hand holds about shoulder high as you walk across the ledge unprotected to the first bolt. It's not that bad and if you're climbing 5.13, most will not have a problem doing this unprotected....
Jun 17, 2011
Ben Walburn
  5.12d
Ben Walburn  
  5.12d
Would anyone care to give their opinion on the grade of this route? Sep 19, 2011
Swavek Gaik
Superior, CO
  5.12d
Swavek Gaik   Superior, CO
  5.12d
It's a good climb on surprisingly good holds. You don't need a kneepad for the essential kneebar. 2 short cruxes seperated by a great resting position. I thought it was soft at 12d Sep 21, 2011
Dan Yager
Fort Collins
  5.13a
Dan Yager   Fort Collins
  5.13a
Finally tamed this beast! What a route! Nov 7, 2011
Mike Humphries
Arvada, CO
  5.13a
Mike Humphries   Arvada, CO
  5.13a
Many of the fixed clipping biners on this route are getting worn and becoming sharp. I replaced the draw at the upper crux, added a fresh clipping biner to the draw at the lower, punchy, undercling crux, and flipped the draw on the last bolt (was surpisingly worn, possibly from victory whips...). Others should probably be replaced as well. Overall, I removed 1 draw and 1 biner from the route, and I'd be happy to return them to their owner even though they are thoroughly trashed. May 22, 2012
Mike Humphries
Arvada, CO
  5.13a
Mike Humphries   Arvada, CO
  5.13a
Quinn Stevens and I replaced most of the draws on this route. There are a couple that we replaced only the clipping biner. All biners were in pretty bad shape with sharp grooves. Enjoy. May 21, 2013
Mike Humphries
Arvada, CO
  5.13a
Mike Humphries   Arvada, CO
  5.13a
I've added steel clipping biners to the top three draws on this route. Bolts at the undercling crux, the tension boulder problem above, and the "victory whip" bolt just shy of the anchors sport these biners. They should last significantly longer than the aluminum hardwear that has been getting grooved and sharp on this route quite quickly. Enjoy! Aug 24, 2013
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
  5.13a/b
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
  5.13a/b
My 60 takes me back to the ground every time. Jun 5, 2016
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
 
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
 
What a route!!! Five stars *****
Harder and just as good as Starlight at Thunder Ridge. Jul 30, 2017
NWNINJA
Nederland, CO
NWNINJA   Nederland, CO
Lives up to all the hype! What a line! Sep 25, 2017
In an effort to comply with OSMP guidelines, the draws were removed from this route yesterday. Others are encouraged to remove your draws at the end of your project session. For more information or any questions, please check out the FCC website at flatironsclimbing.org/ and/or feel free to contact us. Apr 6, 2018
I left an Gri Plus and an orange-on-an-orange Petzl locker at the bottom of this route last week. It has my name, Beh, written on the side. I would really like to have it returned to me. I can be PM'd from Mt Proj. No questions asked. Thanks for doing the right and returning it to me. May 19, 2018
Japhy Dhungana
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Japhy Dhungana   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Replaced the "leaver carabiner" on the 4th bolt. Please be sure to keep this on the bolt to help with the lowering/cleaning process.

Sling beta for the start has not been mentioned: clip the first bolt w/ a double length (120cm) sling and the second bolt also with a double length sling. After clipping the second, reach back, and unclip the first. Continue on as per normal for the rest of the route. It's actually a decent "warm-up" to go on the route, hanging draws as you go. You can pull past the 1st crux, but the second crux has to be done in order to get the last draw hung. Jun 6, 2018
Matt Lawry
Louisville, CO
  5.12d
Matt Lawry   Louisville, CO
  5.12d
It is with a heavy heart that I must share some bad news regarding $00pr kr33m... Some time within the past month, this route has been broken, or possibly even 'altered.'

This route is in my top 3 (as far as Colorado routes go), and every time I am at the slab I make sure to relish a lap or two. Over the course of 6 years, with plenty of weekends spent up here...I know this route very well.

For those who maybe are not familiar with the route, at the final redpoint crux before the last bolt, typically you make a series of desperate slaps on sidepulls and pinches to gain a left hand, half-pad, gaston crimp. From there, you must slap into a flat undercling, tenuously bring your feet up, then make a deadpoint thrutch to the 'finishing' jug (not at the chains yet, but for all intents and purposes it is in the bag). I have never felt that any of these holds were fragile, or at risk of breaking...could be wrong.

Last weekend I was shocked to find that instead of the left-hand gaston crimp, there now exists a 3 fingers wide, suspiciously comfortable JUG. Like, cut feet and relax kind of jug. This change essentially eliminates the last 3 moves of the crux.

I don't want to jump to conclusions - maybe someone broke the crimp, and upon debris removal uncovered a really good hold. It just never struck me as a fragile hold, and the hold that took its place doesn't seem... natural (for reference, the last previous time I was on it was around mid-October and the original hold was there).

Regardless of the cause of this change...the route is significantly easier. It used to be considered on the verge (or just breaking) the 5.13 barrier. Now I personally feel its closer to soft 12d.

The optimist in me is really hoping this hold just broke on someone and that it cleaned up to be something much bigger (as opposed to someone prying the hold off and making it bigger). If anyone knows what happened to this absolutely classic line, could you please fill me in?

Even if it is much easier now... it's still a great line and absolutely worth doing. Nov 5, 2018
Pinklebear
  5.13-
Pinklebear  
  5.13-
Bummer on the new, larger hold at the crux, but c'est la vie, I suppose. This route, especially in the purple rock up high, did take a notable amount of cleaning, so it's possible that the hold just fell or broke off. That outer purple rock is sort of like a layer of onion skin, but we were pretty diligent about getting down to the good stuff. Oh well--thanks for the update, Matt. Nov 7, 2018
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.13a
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.13a
Matt Lawry, there was a small loose section of rock in the middle of that flat crimp hold that you describe that one could move around with your hand. It came out with a clean key. There was also a number of small stones that I cleaned out near bolt #6 from an already large in cut hold that presented a danger of falling on climbers below (e.g., one nearly landed on my unprotected head while belaying).

I also checked and tightened the bolts on the upper half of the climb, including the anchor, and put new beefier lowering carabiners on the anchor. I suspect bolt #8 at the crux will have to be replaced with a glue-in eventually as the pendulum fall there keeps loosening it. I also moved one of the old anchor carabiners to bolt #4 with a quick line for lower outs - hopefully no one hast stolen it yet. Nov 8, 2018