Avg: 4 from 63 votes
Routes in The Slab
|$00pr kr33m S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Boys with Power Toys S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Bulges T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R|
|Diagonal T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R|
|Family Man S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Film Noir S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Hippopotamus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Hunger, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Junior Niblits V7 7A+|
|Just Another Boy's Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Keyhole, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Kr33m in the $33m TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Left 'N Up T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R|
|Nasty Boys S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Northeast Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Pen 15 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Prime the Pump S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Prime the Pump (Pitch 1) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Return of Dow, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X|
|Shalohsh S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Sick For Sleeping S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Sump Pump S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Sweet NiBLitz S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Syzygy T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R|
|Trad kr33m T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Undertow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Up and Right T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13|
|Whipped Cream S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Whipping Post S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|k00kEEz and krEEm S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|m1n1-kr33m TR V5 6C|
|s00kr33m S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Type:||Sport, 115 ft|
|FA:||Team Full-Core Radness|
|Page Views:||9,056 total, 116/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Jun 16, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Descriptions00pr kr33m is the long, overhanging, Your Mother-looking headwall pitch about halfway along the broad west face between Whipping Post and Undertow. It climbs more or less directly above the right side of the large bird-guano arch at ground level. From the ledge, you can see it go over a small roof, up the face into a small, right-facing corner, then up onto very steep, purple stone.
To begin, you can either lead up the moderate (5.7) lower wall, right of the arch, on gear (blue and yellow TCUs, a stopper or two) to get to the ledge, or solo this portion. If you lead it, perhaps tie into both ends of the rope, and then drop the one you lead this lower bit on once you clip the first bolt, to avoid drag issues. Alternately, you can walk left (north) out the ledge from Undertow with your rope, then drop it down to a belayer on the ground. Beware some shaley-type choss along the ledge.
70-METER ROPE MANDATORY in either case.
Once you're all settled in at the first bolt, climb up and left into an open, sorta crumbly corner, then over the rooflet (5.11) to a small stance. Look up and out at the seven bolts of climbing that remain -- way steep!
We figured the climbing got just a notch harder with every subsequent clip; as the angle steepens, the pump builds, and the moves get harder and harder until you hit distinctive, bouldery cruxes passing the eighth and ninth bolts. Think: Rifle-style footwork jessery, big, soapy pinches, and power.
Double-bolts with chains just over the lip get you back to the ground, or jump off onto the last bolt for a fun-ass victory whipper.
I've heard ratings thrown around anywhere from 12d to 13b. So, umm, err, "Boulder 12d." If you get the Beta right, this thing is a powerful, Arsenal-style jug haul; if you get the Beta wrong, it's a mega-sad-super-bouter flailfest.