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Routes in Devil's Advocate

Crankin' stein T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I Want My Mummy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knots-feratu T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen-thrope T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Northeast Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Description

The Devil's advocate is a small flatiron North of the Maiden and Fatiron, and South of the Shanahan crags. It sits just below the north end of the base of the Flying Flatiron. The Seldom-visited crag has a few routes on it worth climbing, and although not a destination, is within a minute or two of 'Tiny Tower,' 'The Apostle,' 'Flying Flatiron,' and 'The Sphinx.' One could come to this area and make a tour of it, climbing a dozen or more routes in a day.
The Devil's Advocate has routes on it's East, West, and North faces, offering shade or sun depending upon the time of day and your intention. While we saw some hawks, wild turkeys, toads, and a king snake up there in the last few days, we did note that we saw no other people. Seldom visited might be the best description for this area.
The best route on this crag is 'Crankin-stein' but 'I want My Mummy' isn't too bad. The traditional route to the summit is the Northeast Ridge, which is an OK route but not note-worthy.
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

It's a long haul in...
Arrive at a point on the Mesa Trail South of the intersection with the West-ward Shanahan trail, and Northward of the base of the Devil's advocate. There are some relatively flat meadows here that you must head up though, keeping your eye out for the Devil's Advocate and Tiny Tower. You will loose these trails and most signs of passage, eventually arriving near their bases. This should take about 1 hour, maybe shorter coming from the Cragmor access and perhaps longer from the S. Mesa Trailhead on Marshall Road. I've done it both ways & the Cragmor area has fewer people (but less parking) and that was nice.

5 Total Climbs

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An application for bolting a new route on the south face of the Devil's Advocate has been received by the FCC for the August 1 cycle. This is a steep route in the 5.13 or 13+ range of difficulty. Details of the proposed route can be found here on the FCC site: flatironsclimbing.org/current-...

Please feel free to post any comments you have on the application. The public meeting will be held at the Spot on Friday, September 1, 2017 at 6:30 pm, and everyone is welcome to join and vote there. Aug 2, 2017

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