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Routes in Devil's Advocate

Crankin' stein T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I Want My Mummy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knots-feratu T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen-thrope T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Northeast Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Pink Hyena aka Tuck n' Cover S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Purple Serpent S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, Patty Johnson, 6/24/2006
Page Views: 77 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


Published for the sake of info- so you know to bring a brush or not to bother with it. The first 4 meters needs cleaning to be worthy. After cleaning, it won't be a bomb....
The route is in an awkward corner for a few feet with no real crack to protect until you get established a few meters up on a good horizontal. After that, textbook stopper placements are in the corner and the route ascends nice edges on the left-side of the dihedral, on the main wall.
After about 40 feet you arrive at a belay tree with a rap anchor on it.


Reach the far West end of the Devil's Advocate, and find where a chimney splits this into 2 massive roofs. Walk north of here to a left-facing dihedral with poor rock and no pro at the bottom. A tree at the top has a single good sling and mallion rapid link on it for a rap anchor.


No pro until after the crux. Mind the rock quality and moss/lichen- I did not have a brush when I did this route so it has not been cleaned. After 4 meters, all you need is a set of stoppers for textbook placements up the corner to the fixed anchor on the tree (webbing and a rapid-link.)



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