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Routes in Devil's Advocate

Crankin' stein T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I Want My Mummy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knots-feratu T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen-thrope T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Northeast Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tony Bubb & Patty Johnson, 6/24/2006
Page Views: 83 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This fun route starts off with a radically leaning handcrack behind a set of flakes. For the first several meters you will be moving more sideways than upwards, off of rock-solid jams. It is hard work, but secure and well protected. It's the best route on the Devil's Advocate, but that is admittedly a measured compliment.
Climb up and right on good over-head hand-jams (crux) and turn the corner with good footholds to a shallow right-facing corner. Climb the corner and crack until it ends, near the top of the rock. Traverse right on a horizontal crack and then down a few meters to the rap anchor at the top of 'Lichen-thrope.'

Location

On the West face of the D.A. and perhaps 3 meters left of the huge roofs, you will see a left facing corner with a tree in the top of it. This is the route 'Lichen-thrope' and it has a sling rap-anchor on the tree. About 4 meters left of that there is a system of overhanging flakes with good jamcracks leading up and right for several meters before going vertical, parallel and left (north) of 'Lichen-thrope'. This flake and crack system is 'Crankin-stein.'

Protection

A set of cams from 1.5 to 3.5 inches. A few longer slings will help prevent drag.

Photos

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