Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Devil's Advocate

Crankin' stein T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I Want My Mummy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knots-feratu T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen-thrope T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Northeast Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 320 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Gerry Roach, 1984
Page Views: 99 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

The route is a little dirty in a few spots since it is under-traveled and at an infrequently visited crag. Still, it is worth doing if you are in the area.

P1 (5.7, 100'): start at the Northeast Corner of the rock, and climb up to the base of the bulge, perhaps 15 meters up. Escape the bulge by going right onto some ramps on the North Face. Some gear is available while you climb up these and then vertically towards a dark, dirty corner (good protection, <1" cams). At this corner, the climbing would get hard if it were not for stepping straight out left on good holds and then up onto the East face. Climb up on the east face to a good horizontal crack and belay.

P2 (5.5, 200'): go left, and pick the easiest spot to climb up a short, vertical section to gain the second half of the slab, and climb this to the summit. You can find huecos to thread for a belay, or perhaps some large cam placements. A 60m rope will just barely get you there.

Location

This route starts at the North end of the East face of the Devil's Advocate, climbing up from the lowest section of rock up around to the north side, then back up to the east. Belay and then climb the east face for 60 meters to the summit.

Protection

A standard light rack. Large tricams would be a bonus on the north side portion of the route if you would prefer to minimize the somewhat typical Flatiron runouts. Long slings are a plus.

Photos

George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
The description says "Start at the N.W. Corner of the rock". Shouldn't this be "Start at the N.E. Corner of the rock"? This would jive with my memory and the photo (also the route name!). Oct 1, 2008
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
I climbed this route on 5/2/07.

We did it in three pitches, as in the Roach book.

We started at the lowest point on the rock and climbed right on slabby rock ~5.2 about 1/2 pitch up to the base of the north side. From here, you can belay from trees back on the dirt and climb the vertical north face. This pitch is fun and steep with great holds and has good pro for a Flatiron route. There is a bit of lichen to contend with and 5.5ish. Climb over the hump and up to a small tree. From here, it's one pitch of fourth class scrambling to the summit.

To get off, backtrack a few yards from the summit and squeeze under a boulder tunnel. A tree in a slot makes a great rap anchor. Rap 50-70 feet to the ground. May 3, 2007