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Routes in Devil's Advocate

Crankin' stein T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I Want My Mummy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knots-feratu T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen-thrope T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Northeast Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, Patty Johnson, 6/24/2006
Page Views: 68 total, 0/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

A decent route that will improve with cleaning. The moves are good, particularly in the steep jamcrack down low. Although most of the crumble in the crack was removed while on lead on the FA some probably remains. Were it not for that, it would be a 2-star route, which it would become with additional travel.
Climb up the right-leaning crack through a pod/bulge and get established above- jam for a few meters and pull up onto a wide crack or flake. Continue to the left-summit of the rock.

Location

The extreme West end of the Devil's Advocate is characterized by a massive overhang, which is cleaved by a huge chimney, parting it into North and South halves. On the North half (left) there is a pedestal below a pod on the rock, with an obvious crack rising up through a bulge out of it, widening as it goes. Above this, some large flakes and huecos lead to the top of the wall. This is the route 'I Want My Mummy.'

Protection

A set of cams from 1.5" to 3". Shaky leaders might want a few large pieces for the easy top-out.

Photos

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