Avg: 3.6 from 51 votes
|Type:||Sport, 95 ft (29 m)|
|Page Views:||5,223 total · 46/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Beh on Jun 27, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Start just to the right of Just Another Boy's Climb and climb a slab past 6 bolts. The first bulge is about 10a and the bulge at bolts 5 and 6 is 10c/d.
Confront the crux reach move at the 7th bolt. You can clip it and step back down to a hands off rest. After the crux another bolt and a section of solid 11 moves leads to a decent shake below the second crux, a super fun, 11c/d bulge. Positive but pumpy moves climb past 2 final bolts to the anchor.
The bouldery crux of this route is right at the start of the steep rock, and it is one of the most unique reach problems you will ever encounter. I'm 6'1" with a bit of ape index. I can do the crux almost statically, reaching the crucial left hold with my feet still on the slab. For me, it feels like about V4 or 12c'ish. If you have less reach, this move will be a lot harder, it becomes a jump move at a certain point. However, one can easily aid through the crux just by yarding on a quickdraw. Even if you hate the reach move, it is worth doing the route as 11d/12a A0, 'cause there is a lot of fun climbing on this rig.
I have to add a big shout out to all the friends who helped me with this project. So thanks Owen Silver, Fred Knapp, Matt Samet, Paul Glover, Joe Collins, Michael Dorsey, Andy Seymour, Ned Harris and Arleigh I really appreciate your help and patience while I thrashed this thing out.