Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Darek Krol
Page Views: 1,895 total · 160/month
Shared By: Darek Krol 1 on Jun 29, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

"Super Tuscan" is located about 50 feet up and left from "I am the Walrus". The start of the route is easy to identify by a narrow passage between boulders. There is a big hole connecting to a cave below directly under the route - because of that, the first bolt is placed high for safety, and it is expected that it will be clipped by a stick to avoid potential unpleasant decking on unleveled rocky base. However, there is plenty of leveled space for belayer and rope.

The route is ...mega! It will keep you awake from very first move to the very last. It crosses bands of colorful rock of different kinds - a true blend of what Flatirons are best known for. Super Tuscan name stands for the perfect blend of grapes that people in Tuscany figured out to make delicious (and super expensive) wine that is off typical local denomination. The name reflects the perfection of mixed colors and ... the friendship with my buddy Curt (professional sommelier) with whom I "discovered" this line. I hope you discover the taste of both Super Tuscans - wine and the route.
There are no very hard single moves, no harder than V4/5 (maybe just a bit reachy for shorter folks), but it is all about endurance, there are only a 2 or 3 good shakes and one good rest about 3/4 high.

Stick clip the first bolt, and find an undercling/pinch (I used a small crystal, but I am 5.10, shorted folks may want something a bit higher) to reach to a pinch...from there, just fish for any hold you can find...some moves are puzzling.

Without revealing much beta... first 5 bolts are on powerful moves with a long reach under the roof section, above the roof is made of sandy stone, I did my best to have holds solid. There is a long move  on that section from a LH crimp-undercling to a big, diagonal hueco. If you are less than 5'9", look for a different sequence to the right with an awkward, inverted, RH gaston. Above that middle, lighter-color section, you will sink your teeth in delightful, chocolate-brown, Flatirons sandstone. This whole section will blow your mind, and you will thank gods to find a big pod with a jug for a rest. A kneepad (right) is useful on this section. The upper section above the rest is made of amazing, granite-like sandstone with occasional crystals that you should grab and savor. Get a lot of rest before that pumpy section. If you look to your right, you may see last rays of sunlight reaching Kansas... evenings are incredible on this rock.

The very last move is reachy, you will need to figure out the sequence from a "fin" to a hidden hold just above the edge of the wall.

Huge, huge thanks to my buddy Colton McEntee who helped me to clean the holds and figure out sequences - he helped me so much that I feel that he is the co-author of this route.

A 70m rope is a mandatory. There are 18 bolts and an anchor with chains and steel biners.

Enjoy Super Tuscan! Salud! Na zdrowie!

Location

Hike up from the base of "I am the Walrus" and "Thunder Muscle" by a faint trail. You will locate the route above a massive boulder and some broken rocks at its base.

Protection

18 quickdraws.

Photos