Ciao Bella (pitch 2), aka Pit of Despair
5.13d YDS 8b French 31 Ewbanks X UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||496 total · 32/month|
|Shared By:||Phil Gruber on Feb 19, 2022|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
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This is the hardest route on the North face of Seal Rock and also one of the bes. The route can be thought of as a harder version of The Yellow Door in that it's long and continuous and climbs steeper than it looks due to the traversing nature of the route which causes foot holds to fade away. Also similar to The Yellow Door, the route has three distinct crux sections over 100 feet of climbing, intricate movement throughout, and a sting in the tail at the top.
You will need to bring a full bag of tricks to get to the chains on this one as it requires a bit of everything, including: dynamic movement, strong fingers, competent heel-hooking, power to get through the steep sections, technical footwork on the vertical sections, a good eye to find the right line, an ability to rest on the go, and the endurance to make it to the top.
Off the ledge, climb up and then right under an overhang. Reach left to find a good pinch, and climb through the overhang and past the horizontal crack that forms Nattiq. Try to rest at the bolt and fixed draw that is shared with Nattiq before moving up the steep and technical arete. Drop down and right, and then climb up and right of the corner (looking for rests) before moving back left around the corner and onto the headwall. Climb through another difficult section past a shallow, right-facing corner on the headwall. Move back right and then over a final roof to easier ground above.
I left the grade open at 13+ as the climb hasn't been repeated and I haven't done many routes at this level. Let's see what others think... it could be easier but could also be a touch harder.
The pitch starts on the same ledge as The Perfect Storm and Love Wins and utilizes a separate anchor 10 feet to the right. Approach from pitch 1 of either Ciao Bella or The Perfect Storm.