Type: Trad
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Shared By: Robbie Kalinowski on May 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


You could climb the entire East Face, OR if you want the best for less, climb the Shortcut. This is a great easy climb on slightly atypical Flatiron Rock: you get a nice crack! Continue to hike West, past the base of Seal Rock on the right (north) side. (go up a level for those directions) to where all the crazies will be starting Archeopteryx and Sea of Joy. When you see the sheer North Face, take a look up as you will rap down this wall, and then turn left (east) onto some boulders and set up a belay before you scramble up the north side of the East Face at its obvious weakness.Once on the East Face, head up a few feet on the obvious ledge and set a belay there. The belayer will appreciate being on the face instead of on the boulders by your packs, and rope drag will be less. P2: continue up the ledge to the obvious 100 ft. finger crack (4). Set a belay on a nice ledge which also sports a fixed pin. P3: continue up and jump past a break in the rock to the summit. The pro is sparse now as the crack is gone, but the "difficulty" eases. Ah.. the view. P4: Downclimb to the break (pls. do this roped, especially beginners!) and find the rap station on the north side of the East Face. Tie your 50m (Rossiter recomends 60m, but I've been fine with 50's) together and have a great rap!


Typical Flatiron Rack. 2 60m ropes are recommended, but I've done the rap with 2 50s and been ok. You should find the rap station with slings and rap rings, but if early in the season, use caution.