Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Phil Gruber
Page Views: 674 total · 70/month
Shared By: Stephen Felker on Sep 4, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route was established as the first pitch of The Yellow Door. It also accesses The Hinge. The pitch is worthy as a stand alone climb, so Phil agreed to the separate posting. Be aware that the anchor is a potential bottleneck if parties are on the upper headwall pitches.

Climb a short, left-trending crack (place a #0.75 or #1 Camalot, or make a long stick clip to the first bolt), then gain a stance at the first bolt. Climb up and right to gain a long, undercling flake, and traverse across the flake. Now the fun begins! Climb the line of bolts through continuous and technical terrain to the roof. At the roof, climb out the rail to the right, then step left across the roof, and reach far left to a hold on the face. Easier terrain leads up, trending left initially, and then back right to the two bolt anchor.

Due to its traversing nature, the route must be followed to be cleaned. The anchor is 30 meters from the ground (rap with a 60m rope), but a 70m rope is mandatory to lower to the ground through the draws.

Location

Hike to the North Face of Seal Rock. Start 20’ to the right of Shortcut (the notch to the north of the east face) and 80’ left of Sea of Joy.

Protection

14 bolts to a two bolt ring anchor; a 70 meter rope is recommended; and use an optional cam (or stick clip) at the start.

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