Type: Sport, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches
FA: Phil Gruber, Chris Weidner; September 2020
Page Views: 1,058 total · 62/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on Dec 26, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Love Wins begins with the first pitch of The Perfect Storm (10a). From the belay ledge, ascend the beautiful, yellow streaks of lichen before veering left on steepening rock to a dramatic, overhanging prow. It finishes at the lip of the wall, just below the summit of Seal Rock.

P1: locate the first bolt about 15 feet up the gray slab. Pad up low-angled face climbing to a slanted belay ledge with a chain anchor, 5.10a, 75 feet (10 bolts).

P2: step right from the belay, and face a technical sequence right away. Above, follow your nose past yellow, orange, red, and green rock with outrageous exposure near the top. There is more than one "right way" to navigate the wall, so enjoy the journey however you choose, 5.13a, 110 feet (~20 bolts).

*A 70-meter rope is mandatory for lowering.

Location

The first pitch is the first line of bolts right of Archaeopteryx. It ascends the gray slab to a bolted belay then takes the right of two bolt lines up the prominent, yellow streaks before moving left and up to the top of the wall.

Protection

P1: 10 ½-inch, stainless steel bolts.
P2: ~20 ½-inch, stainless steel bolts.

  • A half a dozen long slings are recommended to reduce rope drag on the second pitch.

Photos

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