Sea of Joy
Avg: 2.4 from 7 votes
Routes in Seal Rock
|Archaeopteryx T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X|
|Choose Life S,TR 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a|
|Choose Muscle S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a PG13|
|East Face North Side/Seal Rock T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|East Face South Side T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Gruffalo, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|I Am The Walrus S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b|
|Jade Gate S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Misbehaven T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X|
|Primate T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13|
|Sea Bird T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Sea of Joy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c A0|
|Shortcut (East Face) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Skin Flute S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Southwest Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Supercell S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a|
|Thunder Muscle S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a|
|Yellow Door, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Type:||Sport, Aid, 190 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Richard and Joyce Rossiter|
|Page Views:||4,507 total, 28/month|
|Shared By:||Stich Stich on Jun 5, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionWe only climbed P1, but there are two others. We spied the line rappeling from the Seal. Rossiter has an excellent topo on p. 75 of his Flatirons book, incidentally.
In any case, I'll only describe P1. The rock on the entire slab up to the fifth or sixth bolt is covered with lichens, so it can be pretty exciting. The first several clips are in the 5.9 range, then it gets very tricky and thin at the light orange band with larger quartz sand grains after the lichen rock. This section starts getting into 5.11+ territory and continues into a red-brown section of fractured rock. This affords some jug holds, and though overhung, is a bit easier to climb than the thin face below. Mounting the ledge to the left to reach the anchor involves pulling on a poor sidecling on the left from a good handhold. We did not climb it clean. P2 looks fearsome, but P3 is just amazingly blank. I gave it a good look on rappel and just grimmaced.
So if you have just done the Seal and you don't care to hike elsewhere, give it a go.
P2 addendum from Steve Annecone: the second pitch was very wild and exposed, and the bolts seemed adequate. Working up into the alcove above the belay, beware of loose rock and don't go too high before traversing out left. The moves working out left, out of the alcove and onto the steep face, were fun and wild and hard, maybe 11c.... I grabbed a jug and had to cut loose with both feet to get established onto the face. These are a pretty fun couple of pitches if you don't mind the approach (which is steep, occasionally loose, and long).
P3 addendum from Andy Donson: this is an excellent pitch only slightly marred an out of place bolt at the crux. Weave up the beautiful rippled face to a vague twin crack feature which trends slightly right. Where this ends make crux moves back left to a bucket (big throw) - this move is made extra exciting by the unclippable bolt out to the left. A few more hard moves to stand in the bucket and it's all over.