Type: Sport, Aid, 190 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Richard and Joyce Rossiter
Page Views: 5,624 total · 29/month
Shared By: Tim Stich on Jun 5, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

P1 (5.11 with 5.10 PG-13/R): The rock on the entire slab up to the fifth or sixth bolt is covered with lichens, so it can be pretty exciting. The first several clips are in the 5.9 range, then it gets very tricky and thin at the light orange band with larger quartz sand grains after the lichen rock. This section starts getting into 5.11+ territory and continues into a red-brown section of fractured rock. This affords some jug holds, and though overhung, is a bit easier to climb than the thin face below. Mounting the ledge to the left to reach the anchor involves pulling on a poor sloper-jug on the left from a good handhold. It is possible to place a finger sized cam between bolts 1 and 2.

P2 (5.11+): The second pitch is very wild and exposed, and the bolt spacing is adequate. Working up into the alcove above the belay, beware of loose rock and don't go too high before traversing out left. The moves working out left, out of the alcove and onto the steep face, were fun and wild and hard, maybe 11c.... I grabbed a jug and had to cut loose with both feet to get established onto the face..

P3 (5.13a) : This is an excellent! Weave up the beautiful rippled face to a vague twin crack feature which trends slightly right. Where this ends make crux moves back left to a bucket (big throw). A few more hard moves to stand in the bucket and it's all over.

Protection

10 draws a few slings and a finger sized cam or #1 camelot.

Photos