Type: Trad, TR
FA: Matt Samet, Haven Iverson, Kate Hyland
Page Views: 900 total · 4/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Aug 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route also has another, much funnier name, but in the interest of not propagating further slander, I'm going to remain mute. This is perhaps the most ridiculous route in the Flatirons in its current state and still awaits a proper, "direct" lead. Think of it as the poor man's Perilous Journey, and you'll be ok.

This route is on the south face of Seal Rock, well up and west of the toe of the rock. Scramble west up the large corridor formed by a neighboring flatironette along the south face of Seal Rock, passing the long overhanging wall en route. As the wall turns slabby, you'll reach a nice little zone above some big blocks in the pine trees. Stop here.

A smooth, rippled face leads to diagonal bath-tub ledges above you. Climb the face (positive edges) either directly or by starting low and right. Your first piece of gear comes at 30 feet up and is not very good. Either move straight up into the mossy bowl or climb right over the bulge on filthy jugs. Now you're on a big bathtub ramp. Downclimb right about 30 feet (don't place any gear or you'll get tremendous rope drag) and step right (unprotected 5.9) across a red face to access another ramp. Follow this up and left (5.8 X) until you're just below the crusty rap slings threaded through the horn/hole. Place a shaky cam, beware the perched choss and gun for the anchor.

The route has been top-roped going straight-up through the black bulge above the 1st bathtub ledge at 10+ but still awaits a lead.

Bring a wire brush.

You could also access this route from above if you're unfortunate enough to rappel off the south side of Seal Rock, making for a hyper-inconvenient toprope.

Protection

You're not going to need much. A fistful of RPs, some long slings and a big cam or two, plus mid-sized cams for the anchor.

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