Avg: 4 from 29 votes
Routes in Seal Rock
|Archaeopteryx T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X|
|Choose Life S,TR 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Choose Muscle S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a PG13|
|East Face North Side/Seal Rock T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|East Face South Side T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Gruffalo, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|I Am The Walrus S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b|
|Jade Gate S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Misbehaven T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X|
|Primate T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13|
|Sea Bird T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Sea of Joy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c A0|
|Shortcut (East Face) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Skin Flute S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Southwest Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Supercell S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a|
|Thunder Muscle S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a|
|Yellow Door, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Type:||Sport, TR, 100 ft|
|FA:||Team Super-Way-Awesome (Pinklebear, T-Shred, G-Lover)|
|Page Views:||13,816 total, 74/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Sep 13, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a long (95-foot) lead on the south face of Seal Rock, 30 feet uphill from the base of Primate. It climbs the long, striking, wide chocolate-brown/black streak and is a sustained yet varied pitch with the technical and redpoint crux at bolt 12, the next-to-last clip.
There are thirteen bolts to chains over the lip; a 60m rope is MANDATORY. Long draws and extendo draws are useful in spots. A Metolius 6 (green) is helpful below third bolt, and Metolius 2 (yellow) is useful after third bolt.
Begin in the right-leaning hand crack/undercling and follow it to its terminus. Traverse left along a diagonal break into a scoop. Hard kneebar/sloper moves take you over a small lip and into the base of the black streak; the climbing increases in difficulty, with a dynamic crux before a decent shake. From the rest, move up and a little left into a black bowl under the bulge, then surmount the bulge via sustained pulls on underclings, embedded pebbles and crimpers, finishing at a good bathtub jug at the top of the wall. This route is best attempted with fresh skin and good conditions.
May thanks to OSMP, the Access Fund, and the Flatirons Climbing Council for making new-routing possible in the Flatirons!
The name refers to a decision in 2002, after toproping the climb (FA toprope ascent: Matt Samet, Steve Dieckhoff, Strappo Hughes), to not attempt it as a super-death lead on gear, not to any anti-abortion stance.
It also references the classic opening paragraph in the Irvine Welsh novel Trainspotting: "Choose life. Choose a job. Choose a career. Choose a family. Choose a fucking, big television, Choose washing machines, cars, compact disc players, and electrical tin can openers. Choose good health, low cholesterol, and dental insurance. Choose fixed-interest, mortgage repayments. Choose a starter home. Choose your friends. Choose leisure wear and matching luggage. Choose a three piece suit on hire purchase in a range of fucking fabrics. Choose DIY and wondering who the fuck you are on a Sunday morning. Choose sitting on that couch watching mind-numbing, spirit-crushing game shows, stuffing fucking junk food into your mouth. Choose rotting away at the end of it all, pissing your last in a miserable home, nothing more than an embarrassment to the selfish, fucked-up brats you have spawned to replace yourself. Choose your future. Choose life . . . ."