Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano; hardware support from Brett Nelson and Tony Yao
Page Views: 13,757 total · 187/month
Shared By: Ted Lanzano on Jun 5, 2013 with improvements by Pinklebear
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Thunder Muscle is a new climb between Primate and Choose Life that ascends the spectacular tufa formations to the top of Seal Rock’s south face. The climb was first scoped by Chip Ruckgaber who worked with Colin Lantz and Chris Beh to put in anchors right before the ban (see more info from Chris Beh below). We moved those anchors to the left about 10' to minimize rope drag. The climbing is very continuous, bouldery, and overall super fun on some of the best rock in the Flatirons.

The start is the same as for Choose Life, clipping the first three bolts of the right-leaning overhang. The route then goes straight up into a series of powerful sequences on steep terrain to a heart shaped feature where you can get a quick shake. After "the heart", continue through more tricky and increasingly pumpy climbing on pinches, sidepulls and pebbles up to an awkward shelf. A final 12c section guards the chains.

The climb is named after the energy drink, "Thunder Muscle", featured on the Increasingly Poor Decisions of Todd Margaret.

As always, thanks so much to OSMP and the Flatirons Climbing Council for this new route and all the other new ones now in the Flatirons.

Please be mindful of the special and delicate setting, and stay on the trails!

Protection

There are 13 bolts and a two bolt anchor. Long runners helpful at bolts 3 and 4.

Photos