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Routes in The Slab

$00pr kr33m S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Boys with Power Toys S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bulges T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Diagonal T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Family Man S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Film Noir S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hippopotamus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hunger, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Junior Niblits V7 7A+
Just Another Boy's Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Keyhole, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kr33m in the $33m TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left 'N Up T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Nasty Boys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Northeast Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Pen 15 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime the Pump S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prime the Pump (Pitch 1) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Return of Dow, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Shalohsh S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sick For Sleeping S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sump Pump S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sweet NiBLitz S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Syzygy T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Trad kr33m T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Undertow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up and Right T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Whipped Cream S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whipping Post S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
k00kEEz and krEEm S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
m1n1-kr33m TR V5 6C
s00kr33m S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dave Crawford & Fred Knapp circa 1989
Page Views: 5,841 total · 30/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on Aug 7, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is anything but "just another" climb... it is wild and spectacular and ascends the overhanging north face of the Slab.

Just Another Boys Climb is the left-most route on the north face of the Slab. The trail from Fern Canyon leads up to the base of Boys with Power Toys, and Boy's Climb is just a few yards left of that. Though it can easily be led as one pitch, the following describes the traditional concept:

Pitch 1: Head up the dark low-angled slab past 3 bolts, 5.9. This pitch would be a little sporty for a 5.9 leader, but the bolts can be supplemented with nuts or small cams if needed. Belay at the two-bolt anchor under a roof.

Pitch 2: From the 2-bolt anchor, move initially left, clip a hard to reach bolt, pull over the roof (awkward 5.10+), then fire up the continuously overhung face past numerous bolts. The climbing is sustained with lots of 10+ or 11- moves, and with distinctly harder moves at the 4th and 6th (crux) bolts. The crux section, just below the roof crack, involves delicate footwork, underclinging, and liebacks. You will then arrive at a big jug at the diagonal crack under a roof, and can clip a pin there. If you are pumped at this point (I sure was), then move as quickly as possible right along the crack to the anchor. This 20 or 25 feet of crack is only 5.10, but it can feel much harder with the pump factor (a friend of mine cruised the whole thing on his second try and fell right at the end before getting the final clip). There are two fixed pins along the way and small cams can also be useful too. I believe a single rappel with a 60 meter rope can get you to the ground but be careful, it's close.

If you lead it as one pitch, be sure to clip a long sling at the first pitch anchor, and another long sling at the first bolt above that.

This is one of my favorite climbs in Boulder and one of the pumpiest routes I can think of anywhere at the grade. It ascends a stunning and exposed line up an aesthetic water streak in an awesome setting.... have fun!

Protection

Bring quickdraws (at least 8 needed for the 2nd pitch), plus extra biners or draws to anchor or lower off. Also, one each of #1, #1.5, and #2 Friend-sized pieces are useful for the final crack of the second pitch.

Photos

Joe Collins  
 
Great route! I don't know about the finishing crack being 5.10... as pumped as I was after the bolted section, it felt like 5.11. Its definitely not 5.10 in the sense of the finish to a hard sport climb being "just 5.10", so you can run it out to the anchors. The gear is critical, and Steve's gear list is more accurate than the Rossiter guide. It's hard and kind of in-your-face, and you are way pumped after pulling the "crux" at the last bolt. Apr 16, 2004
Stefan Griebel
Boulder, Colorado
  5.12-
Stefan Griebel   Boulder, Colorado
  5.12-
Great route Fred! What an amazing find! From the ground you can't see any of the jugs, or the crack at the top, and yet this route is sustained and continuous with a very distinct crux at the last bolt. Hand traversing across and up the steep crack was awesome. 3 stars for sure.

I'll agree with the other posters about the pump-factor, but if you get the feet right, you can get a bit of a rest at the bottom of the final crack. Not much rest, but maybe enough to fire on up to the anchors.

My 60m rope reached the ground with 15' to spare. Jun 4, 2004
adam wibby  
 
I'd say you want a #0.5, #0.75 and #1 for gear in that order, maybe even a red Alien, rack on your right side for ease of placement since you hang on your left arm. I have no idea where a two would go? Make sure to clip the chains before turning the roof or the rope drag is heinous. Oh and it don't count if you don't turn the roof, and the crack traverse is like 9+, you're just so damn pumped it feels like 10+. FUN! Mar 18, 2009
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
  5.11d
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
  5.11d
Forget bringing four cams. Plug a 0.75 in halfway along the crack and avoid the pump. The traverse is pretty easy. Jun 14, 2011
Ben Sachs
  5.12a
Ben Sachs  
  5.12a
This goes easily as 1 pitch from the ground with some runners down low. Only 1 cam (0.75) is needed if you trust the pins. First 2 bolts are ancient, rusty time bombs with possibly aluminum hangers.... Very fun route. Aug 5, 2013
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
In your face once you leave the ledge, good value for the grade!

Works great as a single pitch, helpful to put a very long sling on the intermediate belay anchor (I used one shoulder length sling plus a long quickdraw) and another long (shoulder length) sling on the 1st bolt off the ledge.

There are two pins in the final traverse, both look solid, but are hard to clip without potentially cross-loading the carabiner. The first is at the start, the last is just before the anchors and is not really needed. I placed a #2 Friend (#1 Camalot) in the middle of the traverse and was glad I had it.

The traverse really isn't that hard, and you can actually catch your breath about halfway across, but the pump factor is pretty high.

I agree with Adam, definitely pull the roof at the top to enjoy the view. Sep 14, 2015

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