Avg: 3.6 from 73 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Dave Crawford & Fred Knapp circa 1989|
|Page Views:||7,457 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||Steve Annecone on Aug 7, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Just Another Boys Climb is the left-most route on the north face of the Slab. The trail from Fern Canyon leads up to the base of Boys with Power Toys, and Boy's Climb is just a few yards left of that. Though it can easily be led as one pitch, the following describes the traditional concept:
Pitch 1: Head up the dark low-angled slab past 3 bolts, 5.9. This pitch would be a little sporty for a 5.9 leader, but the bolts can be supplemented with nuts or small cams if needed. Belay at the two-bolt anchor under a roof.
Pitch 2: From the 2-bolt anchor, move initially left, clip a hard to reach bolt, pull over the roof (awkward 5.10+), then fire up the continuously overhung face past numerous bolts. The climbing is sustained with lots of 10+ or 11- moves, and with distinctly harder moves at the 4th and 6th (crux) bolts. The crux section, just below the roof crack, involves delicate footwork, underclinging, and liebacks. You will then arrive at a big jug at the diagonal crack under a roof, and can clip a pin there. If you are pumped at this point (I sure was), then move as quickly as possible right along the crack to the anchor. This 20 or 25 feet of crack is only 5.10, but it can feel much harder with the pump factor (a friend of mine cruised the whole thing on his second try and fell right at the end before getting the final clip). There are two fixed pins along the way and small cams can also be useful too. I believe a single rappel with a 60 meter rope can get you to the ground but be careful, it's close.
If you lead it as one pitch, be sure to clip a long sling at the first pitch anchor, and another long sling at the first bolt above that.
This is one of my favorite climbs in Boulder and one of the pumpiest routes I can think of anywhere at the grade. It ascends a stunning and exposed line up an aesthetic water streak in an awesome setting.... have fun!