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Routes in Tower Of The Moon

Eaves Dropper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Description

The Tower of the Moon is a small Flatiron which is climbed from the West and North rather than from the East. It has typical flatiron rock, with the climbing being mostly on the pebbles and edges on the faces with some crack climbing, rather that on the slopers typical of the more pedestrian 'East Face' jaunts.The three established/published lines are on the West/Northwest aspects of the rock and get afternoon sun or no sun at all. The routes all have some runouts, all require at least some gear, and start at the 5.10 level.There is some obvious additional new route potential, apparently in the 5.10 to 5.11 range on the SW face.

The descent from Tower of the Moon is a scramble down that is easy enough to be considered a 'walk off.' Head 40' SE of the NW summit on a rock ridge, then cut back SE down to some trees and continue down blocks ramps and talus to the bases of the NW face routes.

This rock is affected by the seasonal closure for raptors along with Jamcrack Spire and the particular aspects of the Maiden.
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

Hike the Mesa Trail from the South as for the Matron, passing below the Matron, after a short additional hike, you will reach the Shadow Canyon Trail. Once in Shadow Canyon, keep and eye up and right (N.E.) to see the forked spires of the Jamcrack Spire. Just below these in elevation and slightly to the SW is the smaller rock called Tower of the Moon. As you reach a point almost directly West of this, scramble up the talus feild for 1/4 mile to the base of the rock. Sturdy shoes, particularly with sticky rubber could make this an easier approach. You will probably arrive at the rock's SW face, and all routes will be on the SE face, more directly facing the Jamcrack Spire and Devil's thumb. Expect a 1 hour+ approach.

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