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Devil's Pinkie (AKA South Pinnacle) Rock Climbing

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Routes in Devil's Pinkie (AKA South Pinnacle)

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South Pinnacle T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

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Elevation:	7,000 ft	2,134 m
GPS:	39.96922, -105.28996 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	2,505 total · 19/month
Shared By:	Tony B on May 20, 2014 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:

See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Access Issue: Permit required to access Details

and requires a permit to climb: www-static.bouldercolorado.….

Description

This has a small scramble to a very exposed summit with views North over Bear Canyon and West to the peaks. The approach to climb-time ratio is a little crazy, but it is an excellent little summit.

This peak is best done in warmer drier seasons, as the approach and descent are rocky and rough - in snow or with much moisture this could be unpleasant. Once there, you are almost sure to be alone, which is good considering that the summit could not fit more than one person at a time.

Getting There

The approach takes about 55 minutes. Go from the Devil's Thumb neighborhood on Bear Mountain Rd. up to the Bear Canyon Trail. The entire time the Devil's Pinkie will jut out of the ground on the horizon, making finding it fairly easy. At first, from the East it appears as a square, leaning tower, but as you approach it from the North and below, it appears like more of a twisted thorn of rock hanging overhead.

Continue on the Bear Canyon Trail past Overhanging Rock to a point below the next Ridge to the West. This is Sherwood Forest and the Gnome Wall, home of a few bolted routes and obscure trad lines... approach via chasing this ridge steeply up and Southwest to reach the Pinkie. Get to the South side of the Pinkie to find the climbing route there.

Per Evan Koeber: this area lies within the Bear Canyon Habitat Conservation Area and requires a permit to climb: www-static.bouldercolorado.….