Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Devil's Pinkie (AKA South Pinnacle)

South Pinnacle T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Permit required to access Details

Description [Edit]

This has a small scramble to a very exposed summit with views North over Bear Canyon and West to the peaks. The approach to climb-time ratio is a little crazy, but it is an excellent little summit.

This peak is best done in warmer drier seasons, as the approach and descent are rocky and rough - in snow or with much moisture this could be unpleasant. Once there, you are almost sure to be alone, which is good considering that the summit could not fit more than one person at a time.

Getting There [Edit]

The approach takes about 55 minutes. Go from the Devil's Thumb neighborhood on Bear Mountain Rd. up to the Bear Canyon Trail. The entire time the Devil's Pinkie will jut out of the ground on the horizon, making finding it fairly easy. At first, from the East it appears as a square, leaning tower, but as you approach it from the North and below, it appears like more of a twisted thorn of rock hanging overhead.

Continue on the Bear Canyon Trail past Overhanging Rock to a point below the next Ridge to the West. This is Sherwood Forest and the Gnome Wall, home of a few bolted routes and obscure trad lines... approach via chasing this ridge steeply up and Southwest to reach the Pinkie. Get to the South side of the Pinkie to find the climbing route there.

Per Evan Koeber: this area lies within the Bear Canyon Habitat Conservation Area and requires a permit to climb: www-static.bouldercolorado.….

1 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Devil's Pinkie (AKA South Pinnacle) Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments

More About Devil's Pinkie (AKA South Pinnacle)

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (14)

All Photos Within Devil's Pinkie (AKA South Pinnacle) (6)

Most Popular · Newest · Random