The Matron Rock Climbing
Routes in The Matron
|East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Father Knows Best T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Human Experiment, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|North Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|North Face Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Pasta Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Quiche on a Leash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Serpentine Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Sunday Comix T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X|
|Warlocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|West Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|GPS:||39.943, -105.288 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||23,851 total, 116/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe Matron is a tall spire that sits along the ridge above Shadow Canyon.
Per Tony B: the Matron is a relatively undervisited rock. It seems that it's remote location and long hike in may be a hurdle when it comes to popularity, but the variety and quality of climbing would otherwise justify more attention.
This relatively large and unique Flatiron is hundreds of feet tall and offers a moderate and accessible sunny East Ridge, an adventurous, old school, and sunny South Face at a moderate level, and a variety of routes on the shady and cool North Face ranging from 5.5 to 5.11. Some of these are actually quite good. The view from the top alone N/NE into Shadow Canyon and over the south end of Boulder merits at least a single ascent.
The North Face, North Face Variation, and North Face Right are all moderates in the 5.6 to 5.7 range there. To step it up a notch and stay in the shade, the climb Pasta Man comes in at 5.9 and has an element of adventure to it. If you want to step it up a little further, then the twins Quiche On A Leash and Real Men Don't eat Quiche are hard 5.10-easy 5.11, and both deserve a few stars and an ascent.
If you need to climb a little harder, then try out Father Knows Best for a hard crux and a sustained challenge beyond that, or in at 5.12, the route Warlocks.
For fans of the routes on the West Face of the Goose and other slightly lower angle edging and face climbs, the W/SW face of the Matron has a few routes as well in the 5.8-5.10 range. While these, Sunday Comix and West Face present gear and protection challenges, they are easily top-ropeable from the rap anchors.
Getting ThereIt's easy to reach by parking at the South Mesa Trailhead near Eldorado and hiking the South Mesa Trail to the Shadow Canyon trail. Follow the Shadow canyon trail around some switchbacks until the tall and proud Matron is obvious on the ridge above you. A climbers trail leaves the main trail and ascends to the Matrons South Side. To descend, there are bolted rap anchors on the summit.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Matron
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season