The Matron Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.943, -105.288 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||39,099 total · 162/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Tony B: the Matron is a relatively undervisited rock. It seems that it's remote location and long hike in may be a hurdle when it comes to popularity, but the variety and quality of climbing would otherwise justify more attention.
This relatively large and unique Flatiron is hundreds of feet tall and offers a moderate and accessible sunny East Ridge, an adventurous, old school, and sunny South Face at a moderate level, and a variety of routes on the shady and cool North Face ranging from 5.5 to 5.11. Some of these are actually quite good. The view from the top alone N/NE into Shadow Canyon and over the south end of Boulder merits at least a single ascent.
The North Face, North Face Variation, and North Face Right are all moderates in the 5.6 to 5.7 range there. To step it up a notch and stay in the shade, the climb Pasta Man comes in at 5.9 and has an element of adventure to it. If you want to step it up a little further, then the twins Quiche On A Leash and Real Men Don't eat Quiche are hard 5.10-easy 5.11, and both deserve a few stars and an ascent.
If you need to climb a little harder, then try out Father Knows Best for a hard crux and a sustained challenge beyond that, or in at 5.12, the route Warlocks.
For fans of the routes on the West Face of the Goose and other slightly lower angle edging and face climbs, the W/SW face of the Matron has a few routes as well in the 5.8-5.10 range. While these, Sunday Comix and West Face present gear and protection challenges, they are easily top-ropeable from the rap anchors.
Per Christopher Roberts: you can do 1 double rope (60m on both ropes) or there is an intermediate rap station that will allow you to descend with a single rope (70m).
Classic Climbing Routes at The Matron
Days w Precip