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Elevation: 6,813 ft 2,077 m
GPS: 39.94304, -105.2884
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Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Matron is a tall spire that sits along the ridge above Shadow Canyon.

Per Tony B: the Matron is a relatively undervisited rock. It seems that it's remote location and long hike in may be a hurdle when it comes to popularity, but the variety and quality of climbing would otherwise justify more attention.
This relatively large and unique Flatiron is hundreds of feet tall and offers a moderate and accessible sunny East Ridge, an adventurous, old school, and sunny South Face at a moderate level, and a variety of routes on the shady and cool North Face ranging from 5.5 to 5.11. Some of these are actually quite good. The view from the top alone N/NE into Shadow Canyon and over the south end of Boulder merits at least a single ascent.

The North Face, North Face Variation, and North Face Right are all moderates in the 5.6 to 5.7 range there. To step it up a notch and stay in the shade, the climb Pasta Man comes in at 5.9 and has an element of adventure to it. If you want to step it up a little further, then the twins Quiche On A Leash and Real Men Don't eat Quiche are hard 5.10-easy 5.11, and both deserve a few stars and an ascent.

If you need to climb a little harder, then try out Father Knows Best for a hard crux and a sustained challenge beyond that, or in at 5.12, the route Warlocks.

For fans of the routes on the West Face of the Goose and other slightly lower angle edging and face climbs, the W/SW face of the Matron has a few routes as well in the 5.8-5.10 range. While these, Sunday Comix and West Face present gear and protection challenges, they are easily top-ropeable from the rap anchors.

Getting There Suggest change

It's easy to reach by parking at the South Mesa Trailhead near Eldorado and hiking the South Mesa Trail to the Shadow Canyon trail. Follow the Shadow canyon trail around some switchbacks until the tall and proud Matron is obvious on the ridge above you. A climbers trail leaves the main trail and ascends to the Matrons South Side. To descend, there are bolted rap anchors on the summit.

Per Christopher Roberts: you can do 1 double rope (60m on both ropes) or there is an intermediate rap station that will allow you to descend with a single rope (70m).

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Matron

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 72
East Ridge
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 133
North Face
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 25
West Face
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Quiche on a Leash
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Father Knows Best
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Warlocks
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 11
Serpentine Dreams
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 14
The Human Experiment
Sport 3 pitches
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 4
Soten
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Ridge
 72
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
North Face
 133
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
West Face
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, TR
Quiche on a Leash
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Father Knows Best
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Warlocks
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Serpentine Dreams
 11
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Human Experiment
 14
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport 3 pitches
Soten
 4
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Matron »

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