Avg: 3.6 from 113 votes
Trad, 5 pitches
|FA:||Aid: Johnson, Robertson, Huston 1953 Free: Wunch, Hunter 19|
|Page Views:||18,699 total · 82/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Sofranko on Oct 21, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
This exceedingly cool route climbs the narrow eastern profile of the Maiden. Rack up at the low point of the rock.
P1. Either step in from the right, or scramble up from below, and engage the obvious crack a couple feet left of the sharp NE arete. Climb the crack for about 60 or 70 feet to a ledgy blocky stance. The crack is steep and sustained and skill in jamming will definitely increase your chances of success. Call it solid 5.10, and slightly awkward in spots. This is a really nice pitch.
P2. Climb up the obvious detached flake, and step left onto the face. Head up past two bolts, with the crux (5.7) above the second bolt. Pull onto a sloping ledge thing, and clip the bomber two bolt anchor. This is a pretty short pitch.
P3. Make a dicey move right off the belay to reach the first bolt. Stand up, clip the second, and head due right. Be careful of the crunchy footholds. At the arete, make a move up to the horizontal crack, and head back left. Clip the third bolt, then keep heading left (ignore the pin above). Pull around the left arete, then head up and find a belay on the slab above. This pitch is quite funky and a fall would be somewhat interesting. It's about 5.10-, and slightly strenuous. Another short pitch.
P4. Follow the strata up and left, clipping a pin or two, then head up and right to the obvious saddle and another bomber 2 bolt anchor. This pitch is easy (5.4), exposed, and 100 feet long.
P5. Per from the anchor, climb the slab for about 40 feet to an obvious headwall with small roofs. Move right to gain the north face. Follow the strata and huecos up across the north face, intersect the North Face route, and head for the summit. (Originally, it was: go right around the obvious roof, follow the strata and huecos up across the north face, intersect the North Face route, and head for the summit.) A 60m rope will put you comfortably on top. This pitch is super exposed 5.5.
It would be easy (and recommended) to combine the first and second pitches. It would also be possible to combine the second and third pitches. The benefit of this would be that you wouldn't have to do those dicey moves right off the belay on pitch 3. This route was rebolted in 1999. There are many bolt studs and sleeves and patched holes visible. This route must have been a real mess before the rebolting: It is fantastic and pretty safe in its current condition. Thanks to Darran Bornn and the ASCA for the new bolts.
Now that you're a hotshot 5.10 climber, you will probably be unfazed (bored, even) by the rappel off the summit. Whatever you do, don't ruin your onsight by scoping the West Overhang route on the way down.