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Gates of Galas
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British X
Avg: 1.9 from 13
votes
Routes in The Maiden
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Belladonna T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Cunning Stunt T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Direct North Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Dream Street Rose T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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East Ridge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Eye Of the Storm T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Gates of Delirium, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gates of Galas T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Hasta La Hueco S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Kor-Dalke Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Maiden Voyage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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South Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Southern Seas, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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West Overhang T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR |
| FA: | Bob Horan and Sue Patenaude, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 1,211 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Bill Wright on May 17, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click herebouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for the latest in raptor closures.
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click herebouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is a fun route that can be easily be toproped after doing the second rappel off the Maiden. The crux is right off the ground and continues to be challenging for maybe thirty feet. Above, the climbing eases for 30-40 more feet, but gear is still hard to come by. The final forty feet can be done by climbing up the crack on the left (gear here) or continuing up the beautiful, huecoed face directly to the anchors. This latter option seems more like 5.11 near the top and there is no gear up this face.
This would make a great start to the West Overhang route if it wasn't for the lack of gear. I believe you could start this route further down and east where it looks like you can get on the ramp system. The runout would still be huge - maybe 100 feet, but probably on 5.6/7 terrain until the crack. From there, it is more like 5.9 to the notch.
This would make a great start to the West Overhang route if it wasn't for the lack of gear. I believe you could start this route further down and east where it looks like you can get on the ramp system. The runout would still be huge - maybe 100 feet, but probably on 5.6/7 terrain until the crack. From there, it is more like 5.9 to the notch.
Boulder, CO
This is a worthwhile route, the crack section is quite nice.
May 21, 2002
Boulder, CO
If you climb the route as described above, you are not on completley different route from the one put up by Bob Horan in 1982 (except for the crack at the very end, if you go that way). May 24, 2002
Fort Collins CO
Fort Collins, CO
Moab, UT
The holds on this traverse are pretty thin and you would probably get beat up if you fell here because you would fall into the crack formed by the block leaning against the wall. Once your through the crux you can place a bomber cam for your second and then continue traversing right on easier face climbing with several gear placements along the way. The climbing after the crux and up the crack to the 2nd rap station is no harder than 5.9 but some of the rock on the traverse is a little hollow sounding. Sep 21, 2009