Type: Trad, TR
FA: Bob Horan and Sue Patenaude, 1982
Page Views: 2,222 total · 8/month
Shared By: Bill Wright on May 17, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


13 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

This is a fun route that can be easily be toproped after doing the second rappel off the Maiden. The crux is right off the ground and continues to be challenging for maybe thirty feet. Above, the climbing eases for 30-40 more feet, but gear is still hard to come by. The final forty feet can be done by climbing up the crack on the left (gear here) or continuing up the beautiful, huecoed face directly to the anchors. This latter option seems more like 5.11 near the top and there is no gear up this face.

This would make a great start to the West Overhang route if it wasn't for the lack of gear. I believe you could start this route further down and east where it looks like you can get on the ramp system. The runout would still be huge - maybe 100 feet, but probably on 5.6/7 terrain until the crack. From there, it is more like 5.9 to the notch.

Protection Suggest change

There isn't much gear on this route for the first 60 or 70 feet and this includes the crux. I'd take some stoppers and a selection of cams up to #3 Camalot in hopes that some could fit in the huecos. Toproping is the best option

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