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North Side of the Sky
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.8 from 22
votes
Routes in The Maiden
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Belladonna T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Cunning Stunt T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Direct North Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Dream Street Rose T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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East Ridge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Eye Of the Storm T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Gates of Delirium, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gates of Galas T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Hasta La Hueco S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Heart of the Sunrise S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Kor-Dalke Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Maiden Voyage S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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North Side of the Sky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Queen-line T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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South Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Southern Seas, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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West Overhang T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 236 ft (72 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Japhy Dhungana, Steve Annecone, April 26, 2022 |
| Page Views: | 2,242 total · 68/month |
| Shared By: | Japhy Dhungana on Apr 27, 2022 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
North Side of the Sky follows a directissima on the North Face of the Maiden with a spectacular finish to the summit of the svelte tower. Currently, this is the only bolted climb on the entire North Face of the Maiden, and it makes for an excellent adventure on a hot-weather day, since the route holds deep shade late into the afternoon. The start of the climb is roughly below and looker's left of the lonely Douglas fir perched up on the mid-way ledge on the North Face.
P1: 5.12b, 125', 13 bolts. Start on some easy, blocky climbing to the start of a right-facing offwidth crack, where the first bolt is situated for an easy clip. Power up the wide crack to a rightward-trending strata with increasing difficulties. Bolts 6 - 10 dance straight up a beautiful, blank, off-vertical face. This pitch climbs more like an intricate Eldorado Canyon face/slab climb than a typical Flatirons climb. The angle kicks up to a series of overhangs for the final 3 bolts leading up to the bolted anchor on a spacious ledge next to the fir tree.
P2: 5.11+, 115’, 13 bolts. Ascend the highly featured stone on moderate terrain directly above the anchor. The angle gradually builds up to an elegantly gentle, Flatirons overhang. Laybacks, sidepulls, gastons, crimps, off-angle jugs, ribs, and water-sculpted tufa pinches await as you float up straight to the very summit of the proudest formation in the Flatirons. There is a new 2 bolt anchor at the summit that facilitates a lower-off/rappel right back to the start of pitch 2. You get bonus points for bringing the whole team up to the true summit of the Maiden to bask in the sunshine.
Cleaning/Lowering Beta:
We recommend cleaning P1 by having the follower clean the route on toprope; however, it is possible to clean this as a single-pitch climb with the leader tramming in to clean the route. If choosing the latter option, it *might* be harsh on your rope, due to the diagonal-ing nature of the pitch and the unavoidable lip below the P1 anchor.
P2 is straightforward to clean as the leader lowers.
The entire route can also be rappelled as an alternative to the West Overhang rappel. The West Overhang rappel series is airy and dramatic but deposits you on the South side of the Maiden (opposite of where you started), whereas new North Face rappel series deposits you right at the base of the climb.
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