Type: Trad, 350 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Layton Kor and Larry Dalke, 1966. FFA: Greg Miller and David Light, 2009.
Page Views: 3,939 total · 32/month
Shared By: dlight on May 23, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start uphill from the South Face route beneath a cave just right of a juniper.

P1 5.8+ S: Step right through a bulge and climb up to the cave belay.

P2 5.10 R: Move left out of the cave, follow an obvious traverse which leads to the Crow's Nest.

P3 5.8 S: (45') Move up and right to an airy perch.

P4 5.12a R: Step down right, traverse right, move up and right through the crux bulge to a belay on the slab above.

P5 5.8 R: Climb left up the black ramp to the top.

This route was previously recorded as High South 5.7 A2+. Unfortunately this significant route has been largely omitted or inaccurately described by recent guidebooks.

A variation finish was added by Miller-Light:
P5 variation 5.9 R: Move right and up to join the East Ridge.

Protection

One full set: RPs to #4 Camalot, FFA used double ropes for security (lots of sideways climbing and some poor rock).

Photos