Type: Trad, 350 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Layton Kor and Larry Dalke, 1966. FFA: Greg Miller and David Light, 2009.
Page Views: 3,752 total · 32/month
Shared By: dlight on May 23, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


Start uphill from the South Face route beneath a cave just right of a juniper.

P1 5.8+ S: Step right through a bulge and climb up to the cave belay.

P2 5.10 R: Move left out of the cave, follow an obvious traverse which leads to the Crow's Nest.

P3 5.8 S: (45') Move up and right to an airy perch.

P4 5.12a R: Step down right, traverse right, move up and right through the crux bulge to a belay on the slab above.

P5 5.8 R: Climb left up the black ramp to the top.

This route was previously recorded as High South 5.7 A2+. Unfortunately this significant route has been largely omitted or inaccurately described by recent guidebooks.

A variation finish was added by Miller-Light:
P5 variation 5.9 R: Move right and up to join the East Ridge.


One full set: RPs to #4 Camalot, FFA used double ropes for security (lots of sideways climbing and some poor rock).
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
Nice work guys and congrats! I apologize for mis-describing this route in the new guidebook. I looked through literally EVERY guidebook that contained the Flatirons and this route has never been described in the fashion you guys did it. With that said, to my own fault, seeing as it was an aid line, I did not devote as much attention to it as the already existing free lines. Good work and thank you for correcting this long-standing error. May 24, 2009
bhoran Horan
Boulder, CO
bhoran Horan   Boulder, CO
Good work Greg and David, a classic aid climbing odyssey freed as a committing, difficult trad line, which more or less zig-zags, following a line of least resistance up the sheer, exposed south face of the Maiden, I heard that a few of the old Kor anchors deteriorated when tugged upon. Way to keep the spirit alive. May 26, 2009
Greg Miller
my truck
Greg Miller   my truck
Has this thing seen a repeat? I'd be curious if anyone cared to comment on the grade. Feb 28, 2017
Steve Annecone
Steve Annecone   boulder
Greg, every time I go up there I contemplate that wild route and wonder the same thing, has it been repeated?! I doubt it. I'm curious, did you establish it ground up? Pretty awesome achievement regardless of style. Mar 1, 2017
Greg Miller
my truck
Greg Miller   my truck
Steve, yes we did go ground up; at the end of the wild crux traverse was a bolt/pin/bolt. This was the only pitch we didn't onsight. I figured out the moves after clipping the highest fixed piece. I got to the ramp that traverses up and left after the crux section and was out of gear and had no obvious belay. I continued straight up the 5.9 variation on a blank, gearless slab on nice pebbles and crystals to the east ridge. We came back a couple weeks later for the redpoint sending all the pitches clean and finishing up and left on upward trending ramp to the summit. Mar 3, 2017