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Routes in The Maiden

Belladonna T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Cunning Stunt T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Direct North Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dream Street Rose T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
East Ridge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eye Of the Storm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Gates of Galas T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Hasta La Hueco S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kor-Dalke Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maiden Voyage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
South Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Southern Seas, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Overhang T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: D. Light and J. Roberts, 05/99
Page Views: 680 total, 11/month
Shared By: dlight on Aug 17, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

More Deadly Nightshade than Stevie Nicks. This is a directissima on the South Face route. Start as for the South Face Route. Move up and right to a flake with a 2" crack, traverse 10' right, and surmount a bulge to better holds (5.9 R/X). Trend up and left in thin, incipient cracks and flakes into a left-facing, left-leaning corner which joins into the top of the second pitch of the South Face. It is sustained, pumpy, and hard to protect.

Protection

Rack to 2". This route may be top roped from the anchor above pitch 2 on the South Face route.

Photos

Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
RIP Jack. David, thanks for posting. Aug 18, 2012
dlight
 
dlight  
 
My friend Jack and I climbed together several times on the Maiden, we did some of the established routes, and we tried to pioneer a few of our own. This was perhaps our best contribution. We did a little cleaning on rappel and top roped the route before I made the first lead. Jack returned several years later and made the second lead with another partner. Although we climbed together many times, this was our only notable first ascent together. I am recording it now partly, so that I can see my name next to his but also because I believe that it is a suitable monument to his unbridled enthusiasm and boldness. Aug 18, 2012