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Routes in The Maiden
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Belladonna T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Cunning Stunt T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Direct North Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Dream Street Rose T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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East Ridge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Eye Of the Storm T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Gates of Delirium, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gates of Galas T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Hasta La Hueco S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Heart of the Sunrise S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Kor-Dalke Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Maiden Voyage S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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North Side of the Sky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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South Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Southern Seas, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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West Overhang T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| FA: | Gerry Roach and Jeff Wheeler, 1958 |
| Page Views: | 8,047 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Aug 7, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is the second easiest route on the Maiden. It is "spicier" than the standard North Face route and will test your route finding skills, but it is nowhere near as hard as the East Ridge or West Overhang.
Scramble up the south side of the rock, and look for a ramp which rises diagonally (left, facing the rock) onto the south face. Also look for a thin crack (the route South Crack), which starts about 50' east of this route. Begin near a big block, and climb the ramp, until the terrain above it steepens and you can see a good place to move back right. Belay here (slings visible from below).
Here is where many people get lost. The face above is steep and unprotected, and it is not obvious the easiest way to climb it. Move up and right, following a weakness past a (very) small tree (you can belay here at a flake or continue).
A few feet above you should see an old bolt. Clip it and contemplate your fate. From here, a ramp ascends up and left, ending at some slings where people have bailed. This is not the way to go. If you look straight up, you'll see what looks maybe like a knob/jug(?) on the skyline. This in fact is a jug and marks the end of the crux. Move straight up, placing a TCU in a crack. Ponder your moves carefully, and fire up 10'-15' to the jug. It is not really that hard, but the two times I have done this route I was not sure this was the right way.
Belay on the East Ridge, and do one more easy pitch to the top. Enjoy the raps down. Both the raps can be done with a single 60m rope, although the first will end with less than 10' of extra rope.
Scramble up the south side of the rock, and look for a ramp which rises diagonally (left, facing the rock) onto the south face. Also look for a thin crack (the route South Crack), which starts about 50' east of this route. Begin near a big block, and climb the ramp, until the terrain above it steepens and you can see a good place to move back right. Belay here (slings visible from below).
Here is where many people get lost. The face above is steep and unprotected, and it is not obvious the easiest way to climb it. Move up and right, following a weakness past a (very) small tree (you can belay here at a flake or continue).
A few feet above you should see an old bolt. Clip it and contemplate your fate. From here, a ramp ascends up and left, ending at some slings where people have bailed. This is not the way to go. If you look straight up, you'll see what looks maybe like a knob/jug(?) on the skyline. This in fact is a jug and marks the end of the crux. Move straight up, placing a TCU in a crack. Ponder your moves carefully, and fire up 10'-15' to the jug. It is not really that hard, but the two times I have done this route I was not sure this was the right way.
Belay on the East Ridge, and do one more easy pitch to the top. Enjoy the raps down. Both the raps can be done with a single 60m rope, although the first will end with less than 10' of extra rope.
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