Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Jim Erickson and Nancy McNeil
Page Views: 2,775 total · 13/month
Shared By: John Parnigoni on Jun 4, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route can be used as a variation to the West Buttress overhang. It starts with a perfect hand crack in a left-facing flake and opens up to 4-4.5" that makes for an easy layback. The crux is half way up the crack. After the crack, the route traverses right to a pin and then up diagonally left followed by two more pins to the Crow's Nest. The "S" really only comes into play after the traverse section. The 11a section (the crack) can be sewn up.
We used double ropes and 2' slings on almost every piece to reduce rope drag.

Location Suggest change

This route starts on the North side of the Maiden downhill and left of the Direct North Face route.

Protection Suggest change

Up to #4 Camalot. 3 pins. Eye bolt at the Crow's Nest.