Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Maiden

Belladonna T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Cunning Stunt T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Direct North Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dream Street Rose T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
East Ridge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eye Of the Storm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Gates of Galas T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Hasta La Hueco S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kor-Dalke Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maiden Voyage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
South Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Southern Seas, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Overhang T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jim Erickson and Nancy McNeil
Page Views: 1,729 total, 12/month
Shared By: John Parnigoni on Jun 4, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route can be used as a variation to the West Buttress overhang. It starts with a perfect hand crack in a left-facing flake and opens up to 4-4.5" that makes for an easy layback. The crux is half way up the crack. After the crack, the route traverses right to a pin and then up diagonally left followed by two more pins to the Crow's Nest. The "S" really only comes into play after the traverse section. The 11a section (the crack) can be sewn up.
We used double ropes and 2' slings on almost every piece to reduce rope drag.

Location

This route starts on the North side of the Maiden downhill and left of the Direct North Face route.

Protection

Up to #4 Camalot. 3 pins. Eye bolt at the Crow's Nest.

Photos

Probably the best way to get to the Crow's Nest. The run out after the initial excellent crack definitely had my full attention. Aug 31, 2014
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
 
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
 
I've also heard that guy say "Nothing you can fit your whole hand inside can possibly be harder than 5.9" as well, so you might want to take that with a grain of salt. Jun 24, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10 PG13
It is not even hard for 5.10...
11a routes are hard, but this route is not. As my partner, who on-sighted it said: "That could go 5.9 in Vedauvoo." The R-part is not going through the roof on P2, it is getting to the right, to join it. Jun 24, 2007
John Parnigoni
Golden, CO
 
John Parnigoni   Golden, CO
 
The crux section is short and fun. If your good at jamming cracks, you'll find this to be an easier 11. Jun 4, 2006