Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jeff Achey & Paul Meyers 1980
Page Views: 4,495 total · 20/month
Shared By: Mark Hammond on May 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

On the north face, just uphill from the low point of the rock are two right-facing crack/flakes - this is the right one that leads into a right-arching seam with 3 fixed pins. A #4 Camalot is nice for the initial crack. The climbing past the pins requires great trust in one's footwear and a bit of trust in the upward driven pins! Screamers are recommended for clipping these, as a pulled pin could change the situation for the leader. Supplement with RPs, and belay when the difficulties end. It could be an "s" pitch, depending on the state of the pins. The second pitch is stellar 5.10 crack climbing with great position. Continue to the summit on the East Ridge.

Protection

RPs to #4 Camalot, screamers.

Photos