Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Steve Annecone, Bret Ruckman, 3-31-18
Page Views: 739 total · 50/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on Mar 31, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This steep and highly-featured face is located a little ways uphill and left of Hasta La Hueco on the south face. It climbs up to the Crow's Nest and is located more or less directly under the standard rappel to the ground from the Crow's Nest. As such, it has probably been toproped hundreds of times in the past.

Start by busting out a few moves of 5.10 to a high first clip. A few more interesting moves on steep pockets leads to the second clip. From here, trend up and left past the next two bolts through moderate (5.6/5.7) terrain. It's a bit runout on this easier section, but an optional #4 Camalot and/or a sling around a bomber horn could be used to reduce the spice between bolts 3 and 4.

Once pulling past the 4th bolt and clipping the 5th, the terrain gets steep and sustained, with pumpy moves through crisp pocket features, crimps, and buckets. The crux is near the top between the 9th and 10th bolts. There are at least two sections on the route where one could follow right or left variations, as the multiple holds facilitate many options.

The "crux" is probably hanging on to the end and avoiding a cumulative flash pump. Being steep and pumpy and of moderate grade, it's a good way to warm-up and approach the West Overhang or Maiden Voyage. It might also serve as a nice warm-up for Hasta La Hueco.

Location

This route is located about 40 yards uphill of the start of Hasta La Hueco. Start next to the massive block next to the wall, right at the spot where people descending from the Crow's Nest land after a rappel.

Protection

Ten bolts are present, with the potential to use natural gear (large #3 or #4 cam or a sling) in an easy section between bolts 3 and 4. Note that A 70-METER ROPE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. Also, it's a good idea to rappel off rather than lower, as there's an unavoidable sharp edge that the rope runs over about 8 feet below the anchor.

Photos