Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: FFA: Steve Wunsch & John Bragg, 1975
Page Views: 6,302 total · 34/month
Shared By: Mark Hammond on Mar 18, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This has got to be one of the best cracks in the area! It's the obvious crack just up from the low point of the Maiden (on the S. face), look up. Great protection, setting and movement make this one a gem. 5.10 climbing leads to the final pumpy sequence where the crack leans right and the crux face climbing exit. (Or was that the pump factor?) Save a #3.5 or 4 Friend for the last piece. Rated .11c, it felt more like .11a to both me and my partner. No fixed anchor means that you continue to the summit or devise another way down. Combine with East Ridge, West Overhang and Dream Street Rose (on the North face) for the ultimate Maiden tour!

Protection

Nuts and cams to #4 Friend, no fixed anchor.

Photos