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Routes in The Maiden
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Belladonna T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Cunning Stunt T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Direct North Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Dream Street Rose T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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East Ridge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Eye Of the Storm T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Gates of Delirium, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gates of Galas T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Hasta La Hueco S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Heart of the Sunrise S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Kor-Dalke Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Maiden Voyage S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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North Side of the Sky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Perpetual Change T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Queen-line T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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South Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Southern Seas, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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West Overhang T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.95002, -105.28719 |
| FA: | Bret Ruckman, Steve Annecone, and Michael Underwood, Spring 2025 |
| Page Views: | 658 total · 73/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Annecone on May 14, 2025 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
"Change is perpetual, but the materials remain the same". This epic Maiden stone was formed from the deposition of sediments 295 million years ago that were eroded from the Ancestral Rockies.
This journey begins just a few feet right of the start of Hasta La Hueco. Follow the line of 5 bolts (glue-ins) and a bit of supplemental gear to arrive at the Stone Oven belay. This first pitch is 10+ or 11- with a punchy, crimpy crux at the first bolt and another 10-ish section at the roof.
The second pitch is the business and follows a line of weakness that wanders up a steep face past 16 bolts to the top of the east ridge. Moderate climbing at the start leads to a little, techy crux at bolt 6 (11+/12-). From there, cruise up "Tony's Ramp" to a good stance at a huge hueco/pocket, then workup to the Bi-Racial Roof. The crux of the route comes just below this roof with some technical, powerful, and hard-to-decipher moves. Above that, a very exposed layback up a blunt prow delivers you the the final overhanging arete with a reachy move crux that is probably a little height-dependent. Keep cranking up to the anchor in stunning position, and enjoy the views!
Since the route line meanders a little, judicious use of slings and longer draws helps a lot with rope drag. We used 2 foot slings at bolts 1 and 6 and long quickdraws at bolts 5, 7, and 10. This resulted in a smooth ascent with no problems clipping or feeling rope drag. The second pitch is about 33 meters long, so a 70m rope (or longer) is required to lower back to the belay. As with other south face routes on the Maiden, this rig bakes in the sun, so cooler weather is advised. Winter is usually the best, but cooler fall and spring days can be reasonable if not excellent up there.
Big thanks go out to Mark Roth and Michael Underwood who graciously scoped, cleaned, and bolted the first pitch, and thanks to OSMP for continuing to allow route development in such beautiful places like the Flatties... this is a gift that shouldn't be taken for granted.
Location
It is uphill 20 yards of Heart of the Sunrise and perhaps 15 feet right of the start of Hasta La Hueco.
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