Type: TR, 160 ft
FA: Unknown (possibly S. Annecone and B. Ruckman, 6/2012)
Page Views: 878 total · 11/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on Aug 19, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route was top-roped from the 2-bolt anchor on the east ridge, shared with the top of the 3rd pitch of the South Face. It starts at the same place as the South Face route. It follows a more or less direct line straight up to the anchor. We TR'd it in June 2012, but I suspect it's been done before as it's pretty easy to set up from the fixed anchor.

The crux is about midway up traversing right under the small, flaky roof shown in the photo. It's fairly steep and sustained 5.10 and 11- climbing, with lots of fun moves in a nice position. It has nice crisp holds with only a little lichen here and there.

Judging from the photo recently posted for Belladona, this top rope travels some of the same terrain on that route, perhaps 30 or 40 feet in the lower half? There's not much natural pro in there, so I'm guessing the Belladona FA was a bold one!

Location

Climb either the East Ridge, the South Face, or South Crack to the two-bolt anchor on top. The start from the ground is where the South Face starts, but go straight up and over the lower roof instead of trending left under the roof.

Protection

Top rope, bring two 60-meter ropes.

Photos

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