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Routes in The Maiden
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Belladonna T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Cunning Stunt T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Direct North Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Dream Street Rose T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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East Ridge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Eye Of the Storm T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Gates of Delirium, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gates of Galas T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Hasta La Hueco S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Heart of the Sunrise S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Kor-Dalke Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Maiden Voyage S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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North Side of the Sky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Queen-line T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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South Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Southern Seas, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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West Overhang T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Mark Taggart and Roy Peak, 1944 |
| Page Views: | 43,326 total · 149/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Sofranko on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Be warned: this is one of the weirdest routes you will ever do....
From the low point of the Maiden, hike up along the base of the south face. Drop your packs below the obvious Crow's Nest below the West Overhang, and pick your way through the huge boulders to the top (west end) of the crag.
Climb the initial west-facing wall to a belay at the top about 40 feet up. There is little or no protection on this lead, and the difficulty is around 5.4. At this point, the summit of the Maiden will be due east, and actually right about the same height that you are at. From here, downclimb the slab to the Crow's Nest. This is essentially a typical Flatiron slab with sometimes minimal protection. The leader will be on toprope, but the second may appreciate some pro. From the first belay, the angles look very strange, and it is difficult to tell how steep things are. Belay from the bolt at the Crow's Nest.
The next two pitches are tricky. I downclimbed the North Face a little bit and worked east. Once I was below the obvious tree, I climbed through bulging wall which is the crux. This was all done with basically no pro, but try to protect your second on the downclimb and traverse. Per Japhy Dhungana: a hand-sized cam protects the hardest moves. Belay on the ledge at a 2 bolt anchor next to the tree. This anchor was installed during the first ascent of North Side of the Sky, and was established to 1) protect the tree, and 2) to provide an alternative descent to the North from the summit of the Maiden. From here, climb up past the tree and a short corner to another ledge, and follow the wildly exposed ramp east and down until an obvious weakness allows you to hop up to a belay niche. Rope drag can be amazing on this pitch. From here, hop up onto the east face, and head for the surprisingly large summit area.
Rap to the Crow's Nest (!!!) and then down the south face to your packs....
Protection
Bring a standard rack of nuts and cams. Long runners are helpful.
Per Japhy Dhungana: a new 2-bolt anchor station has been installed directly next to the Douglas fir on the North Face route.
Photos
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