Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mark Taggart and Roy Peak, 1944
Page Views: 42,635 total · 151/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Be warned: this is one of the weirdest routes you will ever do....

From the low point of the Maiden, hike up along the base of the south face. Drop your packs below the obvious Crow's Nest below the West Overhang, and pick your way through the huge boulders to the top (west end) of the crag.

Climb the initial west-facing wall to a belay at the top about 40 feet up. There is little or no protection on this lead, and the difficulty is around 5.4. At this point, the summit of the Maiden will be due east, and actually right about the same height that you are at. From here, downclimb the slab to the Crow's Nest. This is essentially a typical Flatiron slab with sometimes minimal protection. The leader will be on toprope, but the second may appreciate some pro. From the first belay, the angles look very strange, and it is difficult to tell how steep things are. Belay from the bolt at the Crow's Nest.

The next two pitches are tricky. I downclimbed the North Face a little bit and worked east. Once I was below the obvious tree, I climbed through bulging wall which is the crux. This was all done with basically no pro, but try to protect your second on the downclimb and traverse. Per Japhy Dhungana: a hand-sized cam protects the hardest moves. Belay on the ledge at a 2 bolt anchor next to the tree. This anchor was installed during the first ascent of North Side of the Sky, and was established to 1) protect the tree, and 2) to provide an alternative descent to the North from the summit of the Maiden. From here, climb up past the tree and a short corner to another ledge, and follow the wildly exposed ramp east and down until an obvious weakness allows you to hop up to a belay niche. Rope drag can be amazing on this pitch. From here, hop up onto the east face, and head for the surprisingly large summit area.

Rap to the Crow's Nest (!!!) and then down the south face to your packs....

Protection Suggest change

Bring a standard rack of nuts and cams. Long runners are helpful.

Per Japhy Dhungana: a new 2-bolt anchor station has been installed directly next to the Douglas fir on the North Face route.

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