Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mark Taggart and Roy Peak, 1944
Page Views: 36,452 total · 152/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Be warned: This is one of the weirdest routes you will ever do....

From the low point of the Maiden, hike up along the base of the south face. Drop your packs below the obvious Crows Nest below the West Overhang, and pick your way through the huge boulders to the top (west end) of the crag.

Climb the initial west-facing wall to a belay at the top about 40 feet up. There is little or no protection on this lead, and the difficulty is around 5.4. At this point, the summit of the Maiden will be due east, and actually right about the same height that you are at. From here, downclimb the slab to the Crow's Nest. This is essentially a typical Flatiron slab with sometimes minimal protection. The leader will be on toprope, but the second may appreciate some pro. From the first belay, the angles look very strange, and it is difficult to tell how steep things are. Belay from the bolt at the Crow's Nest.

The next two pitches are tricky. I downclimbed the North Face a little bit and worked east. Once I was below the obvious tree, I climbed through bulging wall which is the crux. This was all done with basically no pro, but try to protect your second on the downclimb and traverse. Belay on the ledge near or at the tree. From here, climb up past the tree and a short corner to another ledge, and follow the wildly exposed ramp east and down until an obvious weakness allows you to hop up to a belay niche. Rope drag can be amazing on this pitch. From here, hop up onto the east face, and head for the surprisingly large summit area.

Rap to the Crow's Nest (!!!) and then down the south face to your packs....

Protection

Bring a standard rack of nuts and cams. Long runners helpful.

Photos