Be warned: this is one of the weirdest routes you will ever do....
From the low point of the Maiden, hike up along the base of the south face. Drop your packs below the obvious Crow's Nest below the West Overhang, and pick your way through the huge boulders to the top (west end) of the crag.
Climb the initial west-facing wall to a belay at the top about 40 feet up. There is little or no protection on this lead, and the difficulty is around 5.4. At this point, the summit of the Maiden will be due east, and actually right about the same height that you are at. From here, downclimb the slab to the Crow's Nest. This is essentially a typical Flatiron slab with sometimes minimal protection. The leader will be on toprope, but the second may appreciate some pro. From the first belay, the angles look very strange, and it is difficult to tell how steep things are. Belay from the bolt at the Crow's Nest.
The next two pitches are tricky. I downclimbed the North Face a little bit and worked east. Once I was below the obvious tree, I climbed through bulging wall which is the crux. This was all done with basically no pro, but try to protect your second on the downclimb and traverse. Per Japhy Dhungana: a hand-sized cam protects the hardest moves. Belay on the ledge at a 2 bolt anchor next to the tree. This anchor was installed during the first ascent of North Side of the Sky, and was established to 1) protect the tree, and 2) to provide an alternative descent to the North from the summit of the Maiden. From here, climb up past the tree and a short corner to another ledge, and follow the wildly exposed ramp east and down until an obvious weakness allows you to hop up to a belay niche. Rope drag can be amazing on this pitch. From here, hop up onto the east face, and head for the surprisingly large summit area.
Rap to the Crow's Nest (!!!) and then down the south face to your packs....
Bring a standard rack of nuts and cams. Long runners are helpful.
Per Japhy Dhungana: a new 2-bolt anchor station has been installed directly next to the Douglas fir on the North Face route.
Boulder, CO
The famous rap can be done with a single 60m rope, although just barely. The rap would be quite scary in high winds (even with plenty of rope). Jun 7, 2001
Climb past the tree at the first belay ove left a few feet and up a hard looking vertical section that looks harder than it is (great hand holds). After about ten feet, you will find two manky rivets... From there traverse left and slightly up to a piton (George backed it up with a Stopper). From here the second belay ledge is about 20 feet to the left. The traverse is pretty thin and very exposed with your last pro at the backed up piton... Good foot holds, but scant on handholds. From the belay join the normal route up the East Face. Do not fall... Jun 25, 2001
Boulder, CO
This climb has a lot of traversing, and for this reason is not a good one to take beginners on, unless they are belayed from both ends. Jun 24, 2002
Boulder, Colorado
The climb itself is unlike any other I've done. Unusual 2nd pitch down climb. The real climbing starts in the middle of the 3rd pitch, and although the moves are only 5.6 as mentioned, the first real move up over the bulge puts you in an exposed, somewhat over hanging position. With no pro in at this point, and a good 30' below and to the east of your belayer, a fall from here would create a monstrous pendulum, and probably broken bones. But the holds are there, and the exposure is short and sweet.
The 4th pitch is wildly exciting! Good exposure. I clipped to 2 pitons along this traverse that, as I recall, were all the pro I used. Lots of little holds along the way,but protection is minimal. Great big belay stations after each pitch. The final pitch is like the 3rd FI. Easy, slabby to huge summit, with a small pond & padpoles.
The Rappel is spectacular! We used 60m rope and it was plenty long.
Note: The rappel anchors are drilled hangers, not eyebolts, one above the other with a chain that is attached to the top hanger but not the bottom one. We strung our rope thru the bottom o-ring and the top D-ring for safety rather than just one or the other. However, this turned out to be a big mistake. As the rope drag over the lip at the start of the rappel, and the proximity of these rings to each other prevented us from pulling the rope down after we had both descended. I recommend using webbing thru the rings to eliminate this problem. I had to solo climb up the knife edge (easy climbing) from the crows nest with both ends of the rope tied to me, to below the base of the 1st pitch belay to get an angle so that I could pull the rope down. Big hassle. But everything worked out. Good experience! Jun 26, 2002
Question on the rappel, last time I did the Maiden (2 months ago tops) and all the previous times the rappel was set on slings that were threaded behind a rock with a variety of rap rings on them. Where the hangers you are talking about new?
Does anyone know if the route has been upgraded with new rappel anchors?
Just curious, WT Jun 26, 2002
Boulder, Colorado
...Ernie, please post a confirmation that these anchors are good AFTER you get the chance to use them properly. Jul 1, 2002
Boulder, Colorado
Here are some important points Bob makes and a URL for further analysis:
"These anchors are very well placed and nicely set.
If you run the rope thru the ring and the last link of chain, your ropehangs perfectly on both anchors. This is how I rappelled off and I believe is how the anchors were intended to be used. You would need to generate more than 40 kN (9000 #) to fail those anchors when they are equalized.
This is called a traditional anchor. It is very strong and safe and used commonly in Europe, and more often in the US. It is not used in the US very often, because it is the most expensive (although safest) system to use and US climbers are too cheap (sorry -this is my opinion). Fixe sells theseanchors premade with a fixed length of chain. Check their web site."
From the Fixe website:
The anchor design is commonly used in Europe and has unfortunately not yet caught on in the US. When placed in good rock, the anchor simultaneously loads both anchor bolt placements. The design locates the anchor bolts in a vertical orientation. This eliminates the "Shock Load" possibility if one anchor bolt were to fail. This design is far superior to anchors that locate the anchor bolts across a horizontal plane. Jul 1, 2002
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
This is a spectacular route and worth doing many times. Beginners should be belayed from both ends otherwise a nasty fall is possible even following this. This route has much more exposure than the usual Flatiron east face, I imagine some beginners might find it pretty freaky. Apr 2, 2004
Apr 9, 2004
Our line went straight up, bearing only slightly to the right, from the tree.
What I am describing is not the line that follows the strata heading more right than up, but it goes just about straight up from the tree, if I recall, for about 160' to the east ridge.
So, in about 160' it goes right only about 15'
As we had never seen anything documented on our climb, we called it Thanatos 5.10 X.
I was unable to get any pro in for the entire pitch, with the exception of a possible piece just above the tree.
My partner, who regularly climbed 5.10 at the time, fell about three times seconding the pitch. I didn't fall, because it just wasn't an option.
This was one of the scariest pitches I have ever done, and I just wanted to know if anyone else has done this line? Nov 10, 2006
Innsbruck, AT
Fort Collins, CO
Gerry Roach's description in the Flatirons guidebook is useful and quite humorous as well. Jan 21, 2009
Coal Creek Canyon, CO
We did the rap with one 60m and there was plenty of 'extra' rope laying on the rock at the Crow's Nest. However, on the rap to the ground (to the South from the Crow's Nest) the knots were about 4 feet off the ground- this was fine as with stretch and standing on a rock you could touch down.
One last thing- the eye bolt (the one you rap from at the Crow's Nest) is getting a little wiggly...probably time to be replaced! Aug 30, 2009
Madison, WI
Getting to the Crow's Nest was straightforward.
From there, we went down on the N side and traversed. Found a great hand traverse at or just above the level of the tree/block we were aiming for, about 5.7. Good pro high both before and after the traverse.
From the tree, we went up over the block. Found an old bolt while heading up and left, then a Z-piton that can easily be backed up with clean gear. From there, went a little left and up, 5.6-5.7 - I thought it was better to take the run-out myself than force the long down-ramp runout on my seconds. Got in one decent nut en route, and finally set up a semi-hanging belay 30-40 feet above the standard stance. Jun 8, 2010
Billings, MT
Billings, MT
Ever since that experience I've never wanted to go back again! Mar 19, 2011
Boulder
5p with a 60m. P1 to the top of the ridge is short and easy enough that it can reasonably be free soloed. P3 I clipped the "pendulum piton" that is located 10ft above The Crow's Nest and about 30ft to the east, on the north face. Not that it should really be trusted, but it takes the head out. I believe we took the low route to the tree, one reachy step around the bulge that was well protected with a #2 TCU. P4 up over the tree, two old bolts, one with a homemade looking hanger and an old SMC, then went down about 15ft and traversed to the base of the chimney, then up to a hollow on some huecos. This section was heady. Bolts on The Crow's Nest are in good shape. The chain has superficial rust. 60m made it easily to the CN - no need for two ropes. Sep 11, 2011
Boulder
Boulder, CO
Also after having done the climb, I really recommend Gerry Roach's recent guidebook (most recent edition) called Flatirons Classics for the clearest description of the route. Even then, have fun second guessing yourself.
And finally just asking...I noticed Rossiter's book says to take the north gully as the south one is more plugged up with boulders and requires more route finding. Roach's book says take the south side which we did. It was fine though a bit rough in places but seemed like pretty standard fare for the more obscure Flatiron stuff. (At one point near the end had to crawl on our bellies with our packs off through a tunnel). Any thoughts on the north side in case I want to repeat the approach someday?
I was also surprised how many times i wish I had brought some smaller gear as usually on the Flatirons I can get away with a few larger cams and tricams. A few smaller nuts or cams sure would have been handy a few times. Sep 20, 2012
Golden, CO
a) 2.3 miles on Mesa Trail from south trailhead; pass main Shadow Canyon fork (stay right on Mesa Trail).
b) When due east of the Maiden, the Mesa trail descends about a hundred yards to lesser Shadow Canyon Trail at small stream crossing with the rock-lined "water trough" on the right.
c) Go left (SW) up this Shadow Canyon Trail. Easier to pass the cairn at the first access to the talus slope and continue up SC trail another few hundred feet to an old mining rock hump and old road bed with a trail heading right (NW) back to talus slope.
d) Where this road bed crosses the talus slope, a cairn shows where to turn left uphill.
e) Follow climber's trail on north side of talus under south face of the Maiden.
f) At the large obstacle near the top, turn left and squeeze on your belly through a small cave tunnel, then easy walk to top. Nov 7, 2012
Eagle, CO
Highlands Ranch, CO
Some notes: first, we were dumb and didn't bring an extra layer. Sure it was 68F and we were sweaty from the hike and basking in sun on the south face, but we quickly climbed into the wind on the west ridge and then had to belay on the shady north face in a pretty persistent wind on pitches 3 and 4. Oops! Chilly.
Second: while the route is run out for most of the climbing, we found that all of the run outs were on easy terrain. Before and at the cruxes on pitches 3 and 4, we found pretty good gear. I had a small cam and a small stopper significantly before the tree on pitch three and then found a #1 C4 that fit in a pocket before the bulge, and then mid-bulge there was a perfect #3 or #4 placement. For pitch 4, I believe we did the wide-crack 5.7 variation: that had good gear, too, and a fixed pin.
Some of the comments made it seem that the pitch 3 bulge is essentially unprotected, but I did not find that to be the case at all.
We rappelled in pretty high winds: our 60m rope was being blown completely out of view to the south as it hung from the summit, but it was no big deal: mildly unnerving is all. We waited for a lull, saw the rope just touch the Crow's Nest, and went. It was fine. Oct 8, 2014
Vansion, CO / WY
It took us 2 hours to do the approach, and 1h10m to hike out. This was at a good pace. Going in we got a bit confused on where to break off from Shadow Canyon trail. (All trails are on Google Maps btw). Ignore all comments regarding mining roads/etc. The large flat rocky area, which had 3 cairns that were probably 3-4 feet high, that's where you want to be, look for the trail north of there.
We did the climb with a single 70m. I guess that made the rappel a bit more "boring" then some people have experienced using two ropes or not using a prussik when they rappel.
We never used a #4 other then the start of the first pitch, which does nothing really - not worth bringing it in or racking it.
As mentioned, this is a serious climb, with sections that a fall would result in extremely bad things. Combined with the fact you are over an hour from civilization, you should be a very confident 5.8+ leader. The runout traverse poses serious risks to the leader and follower.
The rope drag on the last pitch was insane, and our radios died at that point as well. My partner had to tie in to the middle of the rope, as I could not pull it. That was with keeping rope drag in mind; running it out, and using double-length slings on most pieces. Be cautious of this, and have a plan.
The exposure is real, don't underestimate it - it makes it thrilling for sure, but no place for a beginner leader to find themselves. Sep 14, 2015
Arvada, CO
In hindsight, I wish I had just led that pitch, as it wasn't really all that hard (and features a really fun overhang). If you do decide to use the top-rope option, I guess you should consider hanging a sign from your anchor to explain that you will be recovering it later. Nov 8, 2015
Rack: a #4 is worth it to protect the crux of pitch 3 and tricams (0.25-2 or 2.5) make the runouts a lot less runout.
Approach: it is the THIRD Shadow Canyon trail. On Google Maps/the sign, this is labelled Shadow Canyon North Trail. The trough is obvious. To get to the quarry, look for the first rockfall that reaches the trail (it is no more than a few minutes walk) - the path up is just after that (if in doubt, bushwhack to the obvious quarry). Once in the quarry, make your way to the narrow band of trees (you will ultimately find them on the right edge of the top of the quarry), and the trail becomes obvious. Fair warning: the squeeze to get to the start of the first pitch really is a crawl on your belly squeeze.
Pitch 3: I will disagree with some of the comments above that the third pitch has little or no pro - I actually found it reasonably well-protected if you bring tricams. Look for head-height pockets, and keep rope drag in mind. Also, a #4 makes the crux well-protected.
A note on the physical crux in regards to a comment above - all of the photos seem to show the climber following the right-trending crack up around the side of the bulge. Instead, plug a #4 in the base of the crack from the jugs, and then move up and left (heading straight for the tree), pulling the lip and rocking onto the face using good holds and then follow the obvious line up. Exposed, but also no harder than 5.6 with good pro.
Pitch 4: on the standard variant, the ramp continues longer than expected. Essentially, stay on it as it goes down and then traverse around a very exposed bulge, and you will be presented with the referenced weakness: a right-facing dihedral and no other choice but to go up. Doing so, you will encounter the hollowed-out pocket and arrive at a huge belay ledge. The gear is not great, but there is a small stopper, two pitons and two tricam placements before turning the bulge, and then the gear is fine once in the dihedral. May 24, 2017
Morrison, CO
The 5.6 rating is deceiving, and I’d be very cautious taking anyone up here who wasn’t a solid 5.8/5.9 climber with some outdoor experience. Even for the follower there is unprotected downclimbing, traverses where you can’t see your feet, bold step ups and a committing rappel.
Notes:
It took us just under 90 minutes to get to the climb: 45 minutes on easy trails. Follow the instructions below, and after you make the last left (another 50-75 yards), look for cairns on the right which lead all of the way up the hill.
mountainproject.com/photo/1….
30 minutes after leaving the nice trail (scrambling up with the formation on our right) we dropped our bags below where the second rap (from the Crow’s Nest) would put us at the end.
10 more minutes to the top (a few 5.2 moves on the last scramble).
Pitch 1 - 5.3.
Short, easy slab. We didn’t place any gear. The leader body belayed the second while the rope was running through a big notch giving some terrain support.
Pitch 2 - 5.6.
Down climb a sketchy ramp, slung a tree about 3/4 down and a black totem under a flake almost at the bottom. Then an easy walk up the other side of the ramp and a double length sling on the big horn at the top. Hand traverse across a “not-as-hard-as-it-looks” knife edge.
Belayed from the rap anchors at the “Bird’s nest”.
Pitch 3 - 5.7 (but looks worse).
We went down pretty low, almost directly under the tree (the next belay) which I guess is the “Alternate Route.”
It’s then straight up to the tree. There are lots of good feet about waist/chest high. Don’t get sucked into the right-leaning crack. Once you step up and out left onto the face. there are lots of hands. It’s nowhere near as hard as it looks from below.
A cam or two before the climb up to the tree. Sling the tree gently and belay.
Pitch 4 - Grade ?
This pitch freaked me out. The “down the wildly exposed ramp” is an understatement and “ramp” is generous for the last 5-10 foot section - it’s just small feet traversing. There is a good pocket about chest high, but you really have to trust your feet. Keep moving left, step over onto a big boulder, and the hard part is done.
An old bolt before the traverse and a yellow Camalot just after.
Above and to the left of the nightmare traverse is easy climbing and a nice, protected belay ledge. Gear anchor in a big crack.
This pitch is hard to grade. It’s one or two moves of 5.7/5.8, but it’s very exposed and thin so felt much harder.
Pitch 5 - 5.6.
Super easy slab climbing. I stayed low and in a slight gully pretty high and then went straight up. There are likely 50 ways to do this. I think he placed a yellow and maybe a blue - not much, and I carried an armful of rope for the last half of the slab.
The top area was much bigger than expected, and there were big holes with cool water in them. After a quick snack, we rapped down. There is a good stance to rig your rap, but it is a little scary to step back over the edge. There is a small ledge about 3 feet under the rap stance that you can work your feet to once you’re committed.
Rap to the “Bird’s Nest” (plenty of extra rope with a 70m, I’d think a 60 would work, too) and then again to the ground.
It took us 70 minutes to hike back to the parking lot. May 1, 2021
Wolfeboro, NH
Boulder, CO
With permission from the Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC), a new 2-bolt anchor station has been installed directly next to the Douglas Fir on the North Face route. This serves to protect the tree, and to provide an alternative descent from the summit of the Maiden to the North. A 60m rope *barely* reaches the ground on rappel from this anchor. Tie knots! Apr 27, 2022
Boulder, CO
P1+2 were easy to solo, as my partner and I have some good Flatiron mileage, took us right to the Crow's Nest. Or rope it to be safe, but it will only slightly protect you on P2 (5.3) and not at all on P1 (5.4). Very easy to know where you are going here and very easy climbing.
P3 is a 3rd/4th Class walk 50ft down and East to a 10 ft wide x 10ft tall 5.6 traverse protected at the start by a good looking pin plus a few cams you can get along the way walking down the ramp. Don't bother going down lower to the bulge with the crack. It's harder and much more awkward. The hands here are positive, the feet are pretty good, go for it. This is the only risky move on the climb, but it would be hard to mess up. Right at the finish of this section and above your head there is a pin, clip it to protect your follower. Traverse 10 ft to the obvious bolts by the tree, and belay comfortably from here.
P4 is very well-protected with very simple placements. There is ample gear to protect yourself and your follower. A pin, two old bolts that can be skipped for a great 0.75 cam and a bomber #2 on the traverse. Belay in the obvious cave.
From here, we unroped and scrambled easy 5.2 to the summit. Rope it if you're not up for the exposure. Super easy with some gear to go with it. Anyone who says the last pitch is 5.6 has not done any 5.6 Flatiron routes.
Done with a 60m, the first rappel had rope to spare. The second rappel the device was at the knots and feet on the ground - it was close, but if you were a little short on rope, there is a slope you could swing to. Aug 13, 2022
Boulder, Co
In my opinion, the only "R" part of this climb is the first pitch of 5.3/4 which is obvious slab with no pro. Granted, we brought a double rack 0.3-4 (which was totally unnecessary, although we did place the 4s several times) but had very few sections where we did not find pro every 15ish ft. The 5.6 crux, which is awesome, we had a 0.3ish and a couple small nuts for gear. Gear on the "wildly exposed ramp" definitely took some crafting, and tricams would be helpful in this section, but cams go with some finagling. Also, we went straight left from the bolts at the start of this pitch, basically through the tree, and, using long slings to keep the rope out of the cracks on the ramp, had almost no rope drag. All falls after P1 are clean enough for leaders and followers.
The rap is WILD. Starting the rappel to see my rope flying at a near perfect 90 degree angle to the ground...ha! I stopped halfway down to attempt enjoy the scenery and instantly felt the *womp* of the swing building, awesome! Bring the skinniest rope you can find, back it up, and tie your knots. If you're going to be herky-jerky on the rap, you will swing. Bullet straight for the Crow's Nest, and fix the rope so your buddies can enjoy the ride. Mar 21, 2023