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Routes in The Maiden

Belladonna T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Cunning Stunt T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Direct North Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dream Street Rose T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
East Ridge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eye Of the Storm T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Gates of Delirium, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gates of Galas T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Hasta La Hueco S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Kor-Dalke Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maiden Voyage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
South Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Southern Seas, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Overhang T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

The Flatirons present a bewildering maze of rock above and to the south of Boulder. Many famous rocks and routes grace this area. The First and Third Flatirons reign over downtown Boulder. A couple miles to the south, the Slab's squat mass dominates. Just north of Eldorado Canyon, the Devil's Thumb dominates the skyline. However, the true ruler of this area is the Maiden, unique among the Flatirons.

Viewed from the east, this crag is a nearly invisible blade of rock tucked in between other seemingly more substantial flatirons. However, while driving to Eldorado Canyon, the careful eye will discern the true nature of the Maiden. From the south, the Maiden is shaped like a dolphin leaping up the wave of the foothills. Climbers will immediately notice the imposing overhang on its west side as well as the vertical nature of its east ridge. No other summit in the Boulder area appears more improbable.

Up close, the effect is amplified rather than diminished. The east ridge terminates in the trees with a disturbingly narrow girth. The north and south faces are sheer, and the low angle west ridge terminates at a narrow vertical west face that leads to the amazing west overhang and the summit. Like Wyoming's Devil's Tower and Utah's Ancient Art, the Maiden appears to be of other-worldly construction.

One of the highlights of any ascent of the Maiden is actually the descent. The rappel off the summit and over the West overhang is simply unbelievable. After completing this rappel for the first time, I couldn't believe that kind of excitement was both free and legal.

The Maiden sports routes of all levels of difficulty. The easiest route is the convoluted North Face at 5.6. Next up is the South Face at 5.8. The narrow East Ridge is climbed with a couple pitches of 5.10, and the fearsome West Overhang can be breached with a pitch of 5.11. Other routes of note are South Crack (5.11) and Cunning Stunt (5.11-).

Getting There

The Maiden is a bit of a hike from the trailhead which tends to keep the crowds to a minimum. Begin at the southern end of the Mesa Trail, and hike until directly below the Maiden, which will be hidden in the trees. When hiking the Mesa Trail, looking for the left turn onto the Shadow Canyon Trail, take the *second* intersection of the Shadow Canyon trail with the Mesa trail, NOT the first. The trail is a loop, and the Maiden is above the section where Shadow Canyon intersects Mesa the second time. The Maiden is intermittently visible through the trees to the west as one approaches the correct intersection. It is not visible at the first intersection.

The Shadow Canyon trail connects to the Mesa Trail at an old water trough. The water trough is on the east side of the trail at a bend in the trail and is obvious. Turn left on the Shadow Canyon trail and walk up this for a couple minutes (don't go too far). Begin looking to the right through the trees. When hiking up the Shadow Canyon trail briefly, there is a cairn at the point where one should begin thinking about leaving the trail to the right. This cairn will get one to the south face of the Maiden. Interestingly, it won't get one there via the easiest route. A better trail exists just a bit further up Shadow Canyon than the first cairn. When talus is visible, follow a faint path through the woods (watch for poison ivy) to the talus. You should be near an old, shallow quarry pit. A wall will be visible up the unstable talus slope, which marks an old stretch of access road for the quarry. The talus is bordered on the right by a strip of trees. There is a faint path up through the strip of trees - follow that, or scramble directly to the road. The road goes through the strip of trees - at this point head up a path that follows the strip of trees. Eventually, this steep path will deposit you at the base of the East Ridge. Allow a couple hours for the approach and plan on maybe getting lost the first time.

Or per Andy Westmeyer: from South Mesa Trail, follow until you hit the North Shadow Canyon Trail (not the South).  Make a left at the North Shadow Canyon Trail, and an obvious cairn will be on the right as is a climber's trail that you want.  Follow a faint path through the woods (watch for poison ivy) to an old shallow quarry pit. You should be near an old, shallow quarry pit.  There is a faint path up through the strip of trees - follow that, or scramble directly to the road. The road goes through the strip of trees - at this point head up a path that follows the strip of trees. Eventually, this steep path will deposit you at the base of the East Ridge. Allow a couple hours for the approach, and plan on maybe getting lost the first time.

To descend from the summit, make a double rope rappel (or likely a 70m rope) from bolts with chains (previously slings) down over the West Overhang . This will deposit you at the Crow's Nest. From there, either reverse the first half of the North Face route, or do another double rope rappel from the bolt down the south face.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Maiden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 161
North Face
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 36
South Face
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 97
East Ridge
Trad 5 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 8
Cunning Stunt
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 33
South Crack
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 40
West Overhang
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 12
Dream Street Rose
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
The Gates of Delirium
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Maiden Voyage
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 29
Hasta La Hueco
Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Face
 161
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 5 pitches
South Face
 36
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 4 pitches
East Ridge
 97
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
Cunning Stunt
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
South Crack
 33
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
West Overhang
 40
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Dream Street Rose
 12
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
The Gates of Delirium
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Maiden Voyage
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Hasta La Hueco
 29
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Maiden »

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Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
Mike's comment that it is "a bit of a hike" is no understatment. Perhaps since we thought it was just a flatirons jaunt and thus maybe a 30 minute approach.... allow 1 1/2 - 2 hours for the approach, especially the first time - we got lost.

When you get to the talus (30 yards off the trail) - head DUE NORTH - don't get sucked up and into the talus - you'll find the trail which expands to a road, then probably 300 yards along see a faint trail heading straight up. Damn, that was a long hike. Aug 27, 2001
As stated by Mike, this is the mother of all rappels.

We were able to do both rappels (independently) with a 60M rope. Grant it, there was not a lot of rope left, but it was comfortable enough. Also, there was no wind the day we did this.

Now, I have heard horror stories of people being swung out by the wind away from the crow's nest and having to time the descent with the variations in the wind... Needless to say this would be even more horrific if all you had left were 10 feet of rope as you swung over 100ft of air...

So, make sure your rope was cut to the appropriate length at the factory and tie them ends. Enjoy the rush... Lot's of nervous giggling usually follows the first rappel... Oct 1, 2001
Who needs a GPS when you can do it the old fashioned way? Here is the info you've been waiting for: As described above, the Shadow Canyon Trail intersects the Mesa Trail at an obvious water trough. From the Mesa Trail, take between 192 (for taller folks) and 233 (for shorter folks) steps up the Shadow Canyon Trail. Then, head right through the trees and poison ivy to the quarry. Follow my directions from there.

I didn't time us on the way in, but the hike out took exactly 1 hour (very casual pace) from the bottom of the Maiden to the South Mesa trailhead. Of course, it's mostly all mellow downhill. Oct 22, 2001
Myke is actually describing a slightly different approach in his comment. It sounds to me like he is saying to continue further up the Shadow Canyon Trail, then head right and walk directly to the quarry road. This way may indeed be better, but it probably doesn't matter too much. Heck, the first time I tried to get there I ended up thrashing around below the Fatiron, so any way is better than that.

My point is that my step count probably won't match his GPS coordinates. Oct 24, 2001
Mike's approach description is very good. It took us 1 hour 5 minutes following his beta, moderate pace, light rack, 2 light ropes. Nov 5, 2001
You can do the rappel from the summit to the ground as a single rappel if you have two 60 meter ropes. You end up dropping off the end of your rope about two feet above the ground! Nov 19, 2001
Be careful about the weather when you attempt this climb.

The weather was great before the last pitch yesterday on the North Ridge. It got very windy and made the rappeller feel as if being dropped from a helicopter. It was hard to hit the crow's nest and even harder to pull the ropes.

We couldn't pull them and had to rap from the summit to the bottom and get the ropes this morning when the wind died down. Feb 11, 2002
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Another approach (as showed to me by Josh Janes):This is a nice alternative, but may not save any time. Go up this way and down one of the other ways to do a loop.Immediately after starting up the Mesa Trail, turn left on the Towhee Trail. Follow this good trail steadily up until it joins the Shadow Canyon trail (a good dirt road). Turn left on the Shadow Canyon trail, pass below the Matron, and pass some structures, until you are at the mouth of Shadow Canyon (small stream crossing here). Turn right on a small trail (with sign) that connects to the Mesa Trail. This is the same "Shadow Canyon" trail mentioned above. Gently down (not too much elevation loss), until you come to the flat quarry "road" mentioned by Myke above. Aug 6, 2003
Cody Munger
Carson City, NV
Cody Munger   Carson City, NV
Make sure you take the third Shadow Canyon turnoff from the Mesa Trail. I got confused because I hit 2 turnoffs to Shadow Canyon before giving up because I thought maybe the water trough was gone (it won't be, quite permanent).

Also, it's in your best interest go up on the south side of the Maiden. The north side is very difficult comparatively. Filled with huge boulders, downed trees, and overgrown with ferns and raspberrys. Oct 31, 2005
Just an FYI. I climbed on the Maiden yesterday and was able to do two single rope (60M) raps from the bolts at the notch at the top of crux pitch on the South Face. 1st rap is about 40-50ft with a swing over to the 2 bolt anchor. 2nd rap just gets you to the ground with rope stretch (110 ft.) Nov 7, 2006
There is an application for a new climb on the southwest arete of the Maiden, for the Autumn 2010 Flatirons Climbing Council FHRC cycle. To leave comments, please visit: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo…

Dates and location of the FHRC public meeting to be announced soon. Oct 1, 2010
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
The approach isn't bad and would be considered an easy to moderate approach at other destinations (e.g. Red Rocks). We followed the instructions above and reached the base of the East Ridge in 65 minutes at a brisk walking pace. Just follow the cairns and make sure you locate the faint path through the trees to the right of the talus. Jun 26, 2011
There is an application for a new climb on the south side of the Maiden, our only application for the August 2012 cycle of the Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council. Details can be found at the link below; the public meeting and vote will be held Wednesday, September 5 at 6:30 p.m. at The Spot gym (thespotgym.com), Boulder, Colorado. The deadline for the next cycle is January 1, 2013, though applications should be submitted in advance if possible.

flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo… Aug 6, 2012
Please note that the application for the Hueco Wall, south face of the Maiden, has been updated to include a possible third pitch, which would have been brought up at the public meeting in any case. You can still view and comment on the application at flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo…

The public vote and meeting is September 5, 6:30 p.m. at The Spot gym in Boulder, Colorado. Aug 19, 2012
mtoensing
Boulder
mtoensing   Boulder
So what's the beta on hueco wall? Does it go in 2 or 3 pitches? What are the anchors like and how many bolts are there?

I can't wait to try it! Looks amazing! Feb 9, 2013
Mike Alkaitis and I just backed up the single old CMC eyebolt, at the Crow's Nest rappel, with a new bolt/chain anchor. Now you don't have to worry about the fifty year old ??? eyebolt failing. The face just below this rappel is an excellent top rope and is probably .11+ or .12a - if you avoid escaping left into "Gates of Galas" crack system. Definitely worth checking out. Curiously, there were combat-style boots just sitting neatly at the base of this rappel, with nobody else around. It kind of creeped Mike and I out. Mar 7, 2014
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
^^^
Many thanks for the hardware update. Was just up there today and it looks great! Definitely glad not to be rapping off of that single bolt anymore, no matter how large it is....

In regards to the combat boots, they have been up there for a couple of months now. Saw them a while ago and placed them under the large boulder by the rap where you most likely found them. There was a guidebook with the boots as well as a bail anchor made up of brand new gear on the North face. Curious (and kind of creepy) indeed! Apr 5, 2014
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
What are the 2 wild looking sport climbs that break off right from part way up the first pitch of the West Overhang and the top of the first pitch of the West Overhang? Amazing looking lines! Aug 31, 2014
Tried to get on this today. The map posted at the first Shadow Canyon traihhead makes it look like The Maiden is now within the raptor closure area (as opposed to the current MP seasonal closure warnings). Unless someone knows for sure that it is outside of the area, I wouldn't get on it until the closures are removed. Apr 12, 2015
Jonathan S
Golden, CO
Jonathan S   Golden, CO
Regarding raptor closures, from here "Shadow Canyon and the Matron [are closed] (the Maiden will remain open and accessible from the east; Shadow Canyon Trail will remain open)". Looking at the closure map, you have to zoom in, but you can see the boundary skirts the Maiden. Apr 23, 2015
Gunnar  
Hey, dropped a set of BD nuts off the belay stance from the top of pitch three on the east crack on Sunday 2-19. If anyone picked these up, give me a shout! Feb 21, 2017
There is an application for fixed hardware for a new climb on the south side of the Maiden. The climb is directly below the last rappel of the standard rappel route from the summit. Details can be found atflatironsclimbing.org. The public meeting and vote will be held Thursday February 1 at 6:30 p.m. at The Spot Gym, Boulder, Colorado. Please feel free to post comments on the FCC page, and also come to the public meeting! Dec 31, 2017

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