Fern Canyon Climbing

This is an organizational entry suggested by one our users to help with clarify crag locations for those less familiar. This is a minor gully/canyon on the NE side of Bear Peak in the southern half of the Flatirons. It hosts numberous shorter 1-2 pitch climbs of a moderate to advanced level of difficulty. The approach is often 45-60 minutes, although the hike itself is a bonus for the day. Nonetheless, there are some beautiful routes in this area. The great majority of routes here are face climbs. Many routes have a southerly aspect, which permits wonderful climbing on sunny fall & winter days.

Crags accessed from this Fern Canyon Trail include: Nebel Horn Ridge, Onoclea, Pellea, East Ridge, Fiddlehead, The Goose Eggs, The Goose, Mars Block, & Seal Rock. However, for the purpose of this organization, we'll include those crags ordinarily approached from the Fern Canyon trail: Nebel Horn, East Ridge, Onoclea, Pellea, Fiddlehead, The Goose Eggs, & Mars Block.

Some fine routes here include: East Face/S Goose Egg, 5.2 R; East Face/Pellea, 5.5 R; Rad for Rookies, 8; Rainbow Bridge, 9; Fountain of Youth, 10; A Shadow Sickness, 10; Edgemaster, 10; Leprechaun Promenade, 10 R; Everpresent Lane, 10+; Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint, 10+; Ilga Grimpeur, 11; Lightning Bolt Arete, 11; the short but gorgeous Ruby Slipper, 11; Fluorescent Gray, 11 R; Slabmaster, 12-, Exile, 12-; Castles Made of Sand, 12-; Chains of Love, 12; & the controversial but historically significant Superfresh, 12+.