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Areas in Fern Canyon

Broken Egg 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
East Ridge 13 / 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Fern Canyon Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Fiddlehead 10 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Mars Block 4 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Mentor Boulder 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Nebel Horn Ridge 12 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Northern Egg 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Onoclea 2 / 0 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Pellea 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Southern Goose Egg 6 / 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Superfresh Boulder 1 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is an organizational entry suggested by one our users to help with clarify crag locations for those less familiar. This is a minor gully/canyon on the NE side of Bear Peak in the southern half of the Flatirons. It hosts numberous shorter 1-2 pitch climbs of a moderate to advanced level of difficulty. The approach is often 45-60 minutes, although the hike itself is a bonus for the day. Nonetheless, there are some beautiful routes in this area. The great majority of routes here are face climbs. Many routes have a southerly aspect, which permits wonderful climbing on sunny fall & winter days.

Crags accessed from this Fern Canyon Trail include: Nebel Horn Ridge, Onoclea, Pellea, East Ridge, Fiddlehead, The Goose Eggs, The Goose, Mars Block, & Seal Rock. However, for the purpose of this organization, we'll include those crags ordinarily approached from the Fern Canyon trail: Nebel Horn, East Ridge, Onoclea, Pellea, Fiddlehead, The Goose Eggs, & Mars Block.

Some fine routes here include: East Face/S Goose Egg, 5.2 R; East Face/Pellea, 5.5 R; Rad for Rookies, 8; Rainbow Bridge, 9; Fountain of Youth, 10; A Shadow Sickness, 10; Edgemaster, 10; Leprechaun Promenade, 10 R; Everpresent Lane, 10+; Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint, 10+; Ilga Grimpeur, 11; Lightning Bolt Arete, 11; the short but gorgeous Ruby Slipper, 11; Fluorescent Gray, 11 R; Slabmaster, 12-, Exile, 12-; Castles Made of Sand, 12-; Chains of Love, 12; & the controversial but historically significant Superfresh, 12+.

Getting There

The closest approach is likely from NCAR at the West end of Table Mesa at the south end of Boulder. From here, hike West to the Mesa Trail, go South on the trail down into the Bear Canyon drainage, continue up to the Fern Canyon sign. Ascend this pretty trail to various point at which you wander NW toward the route of choice.

71 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fern Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
 27
East Face/Pellea
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Rainbow Bridge
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
A Shadow Sickness
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Fountain of Youth
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 16
Leprechaun Promenade
Sport, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Everpresent Lane
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Edgemaster
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 8
Fluorescent Gray
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Castles Made of Sand
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 4
Exile
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 24
Chains of Love
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Mentor
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
Superfresh
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Face/Pellea Pellea
 27
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R Trad 3 pitches
Rainbow Bridge Nebel Horn Ridge
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
A Shadow Sickness Fiddlehead
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Fountain of Youth E Ridge
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Leprechaun Promenade Fiddlehead
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Sport, TR
Everpresent Lane E Ridge
 10
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Edgemaster E Ridge
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lucky Charms aka Rip This J… Fiddlehead
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Fluorescent Gray E Ridge
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
Castles Made of Sand Fiddlehead
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber E Ridge
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Exile E Ridge
 4
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Chains of Love Fiddlehead
 24
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Mentor Mentor Boulder
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Superfresh Superfresh Boulder
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Fern Canyon »

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Photos

Mark Roth
Boulder
Mark Roth   Boulder
All of the routes in Fern Canyon have been re-bolted with the exception of: Super Fresh and Rude Welcome.

Those routes will get finished in August after the raptor closure. Feb 3, 2018

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