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Routes in East Ridge

Babyback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Edgemaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Everpresent Lane T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exile S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fluorescent Gray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fountain of Youth T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Galactic Warrior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Haywire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ilga Grimpeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Iron Cross T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kent's Krack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stealth Slab Downclimb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Superguide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Brett Ruckman, et al
Page Views: 1,581 total, 8/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Locate the gap between Fiddle Head and the Upper Ridge and check out the east facing wall, this is Exile...Four bolts ascend the steep slab start on rock that, at first inspection, appears to be totally devoid of holds. Once at the third bolt you will realize that its only mostly devoid of holds. Do a trick reach move, clip bolt 4 and shake out at the rest(11c). Power up through the next 2 bolts (crux) clip the pin and go to the anchor...Bad rope drag when lowering!!!

Protection

6 bolts, 1 peg, 0.5 tricam (or equivalent optional between #4+5), and a 2 bolt anchor (set way far back).

Photos

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Mark Roth
Boulder
Mark Roth   Boulder
Huge thanks to the ASCA for providing the hardware, and thanks to OSMP for allowing the upgrade. Sep 11, 2017
Bret Ruckman  
 
The hardware has now been upgraded to 1/2 inch stainless, with a slightly lower top anchor to help with rope drag. The second bolt is not visible from the belay stance/staging area at the base of the route, but don't despair--it is there. A 2 inch piece sets a nice first anchor for the belayer at the base. Higher up, at the horizontal crack/rest above the 4th bolt, bring several cams (or Tricams) in the 1/2 to 1 inch range. I want to thank Mark Roth for doing the lion's share of the work on re-bolting this, and hopefully revitalizing this excellent route. Sep 10, 2017