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Routes in East Ridge

Babyback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Edgemaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Everpresent Lane T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exile S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fluorescent Gray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fountain of Youth T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Galactic Warrior T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Haywire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ilga Grimpeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Iron Cross T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kent's Krack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stealth Slab Downclimb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Superguide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Kent Lugbill, details uncerrtain
Page Views: 543 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This climb is better than it looks and is actually quite gymnastic. Jams of all types, toe hooks, heel hooks, knee bars, drop knees, lie-backs, edging, and yes, even a forearm jam in an off-width near the crux. If the poorer rock is avoided, this is a reasonable trad lead and need not be TR'd. The bolts (removed) make it apparent that you are intended to stay on the right of the final arete, but you can climb up it and on the left side with good gear and funky moves just as well and do it statically.
Start off in a pale, wide crack, and climb up to a left-angling steep crack. Place gear, and start hand jamming up and left below a roof to an offwidth. Place cams along the way. Beat the off-width and a strange overlap to reach the arete and a few good holds and jams. Get up on the arete (crux) and climb it on either side (left would be the spookier version on TR) to the anchors on top.

Location

At the very top, northern end of the East Ridge of Fern Canyon, past the routes Unity and Babyback and their down-scrambles, lies a large mound of rock. On its south side a zig-zag crack of lighter stone there is some interesting climbing.

Protection

An interesting route with some interesting history, no doubt. Perhaps Kent decided it didn't need bolts, or perhaps it was a stripped project. Or maybe it's time was after the bolting ban, but for whatever reason the route was stripped, some with removed hangers, some with removed nuts. Just as well, though, the route goes trad and would need only 1 keyhole hanger (a' la blue mountains, AU style) and one nut and hanger for a complete sew-up. The 2-bolt anchor up over the top is still present, but is rigged well back over an edge and is hard to get to from above and hard to rap in from.
Rossiter lists this as a TR, but really it would be just as well to lead it - the TR anchor is pretty far up an overhang and swinging around on it harsh.
To lead this line trad, take a rack of cams to 5" and some slings to keep drag low. At the crux arete, head left up on to it with gear placed around the corner with a longer sling. A 3/8-inch "keyhole hanger" could be placed on the bolt there as well and would protect the crux, but I don't think it necessary.

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