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Routes in East Ridge

Babyback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Edgemaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Everpresent Lane T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exile S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fluorescent Gray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fountain of Youth T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Galactic Warrior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Haywire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ilga Grimpeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Iron Cross T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kent's Krack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stealth Slab Downclimb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Superguide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Roger Briggs 1974, solo
Page Views: 61 total, 0/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Sep 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a very short climb in the dihedral to the right of the climb "Babyback". While short, it is a good climb, and is worth it if you are up there doing the other routes on the East Ridge. Lieback up a short, thin, right-facing dihedral with slippery feet for about 25 feet or so to the top. Since it leans right, the crack somewhat forces you out onto the face for your feet, and some crimpers. Put this one in the "only if it was longer" category!

Protection

Only need a handful of smaller-mid sized gear. There are good placements for a .75 cam, and a #2, and if you are in need, a couple Aliens or smaller stoppers can go in-between.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9- PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9- PG13
The face down low is dirty and a little runout- the rock may be brittle in spots, so mind he pro you'd get carefully. THe upper half has wonderful pockets and scoops on the right side of the corner, but not enough to make up for the poor lower 1/2 of the climb. 2 stars for the top 30', but only one overall. Oct 29, 2006
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Interestingly, Boulder Climbs South lists it as a 5.8, the topo from Best of Boulder lists it as 5.8+, and the most recent Flatirons guide lists it as 5.9. Easier to follow than lead. Nice dimples/scoops on the R face. Sep 23, 2003