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Routes in East Ridge

Babyback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Edgemaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Everpresent Lane T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exile S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fluorescent Gray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fountain of Youth T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Galactic Warrior T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Haywire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ilga Grimpeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Iron Cross T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kent's Krack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stealth Slab Downclimb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Superguide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad
FA: Dan Hare, solo, 1981
Page Views: 128 total · 1/month
Shared By: Michael Walker on Oct 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description [Suggest Change]

As one descends the upper ridge from the top, the Dihedral area of the East Ridge grows in height and intensity. There are a few short pitches of moderate and mediocre quality near the top, but the quality improves greatly with The Knack, a crack climb that ascends the prominent dihedral between the second and third major aretes.

Just to the right of a steep broken area and under the slightly overhanging second major arete, the Knack begins in a left-facing corner with an easy crack. Practice those stopper placements and gain a large ledge system. The crack continues steeply above and the crux is encountered where it "flip-flops" from left- to right-facing. It looks difficult from the ground but once upon the flip-flop, killer jams and lovely stopper placements ease your anxiety. Step out right onto a convenient pebble on the face and use nice finger jams to gain a sloping ledge. This is the best of the Knack. A #4 in the easy crack above will make the next couple of moves very safe, then head straight up the dihedral to the second crux, more finger jams, which are well protected with small stoppers.

At the top, go right and rap from the two ring anchor for Fountain of Youth.

Protection [Suggest Change]

SR to #4 Friend.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
This sandbag takes the title for "hardest 5.6 around" away from WonderLust at the Veil, in Eldo. Good climb though. 1* overall, or maybe 2*'s for this crag. Oct 4, 2004
RomoFo Fo  
 
A little hard for the grade, great views from the top. Oct 16, 2005
Mark Griffin
Boulder, CO
Mark Griffin   Boulder, CO
Anchor at the top of Fountain of Youth is in bad shape. See comments on the FoY page. Recommend finding a different way down.

EDIT: Anchor replaced with new hardware thanks to Jason, Matt, ASCA and ARI. Aug 22, 2008
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.9
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.9
There is a point low on the route (see photo) where our rope got pinched so badly that my partner had to build an anchor halfway up so we could free it. Consider placing a directional piece (BD#2 Camalot) out left upon reaching a lower ledge at ~25 feet so as to avoid the pinch point.(However, that technically made "The Knack" 2 pitches, thereby upping our pitch count for the day, and we all know how important that is). Oct 25, 2008
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.9
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.9
I might also mention that a couple of holds at the upper crux have popped off, making this section of the climb MUCH harder than 5.6. Super-enjoyable, though, and great gear. Traverse at the top to the bolt anchors of Fountain to belay. Thanks to the ASCA for the new bolts! Oct 25, 2008

More About The Knack

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