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Routes in East Ridge

Babyback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Edgemaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Everpresent Lane T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exile S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fluorescent Gray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fountain of Youth T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Galactic Warrior T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Haywire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ilga Grimpeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Iron Cross T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kent's Krack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stealth Slab Downclimb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Superguide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bill DeMallie, Gail McClannahan, 1989
Page Views: 1,344 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 22, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Approach: As you hike up the gully between the East Ridge and the Nebel Horn ridge you will pass the huge overhangs of Fiddlehead, then a gap in the ridge, and then a steep section with an obvious left facing corner (Everpresent Lane 10d), and then you will arrive at the Stealth Slab. On the right side of the slab is a ledge with a tree about 20 feet up. Scramble onto some blocks and make a couple of moderate moves to the ledge. Scramble right past the tree and down to a comfy belay.

Start: There seem to be two ways to start. There is a bolt a little above the ledge that leads to a right angling ramp and another bolt just right of the ramp. I think this is NOT the correct start, since the second bold is not in a logical place if this were the route. I started further right on some blocks, leaned left to clip the higher bolt, and then traverse left and up to the ramp.

The climbing: There are 6 or 7 bolts depending on the start, not 9 as per Rossiter. Clipping the bolt above the ramp was scary for me. I don't like ramps with no hand holds. So I put in some psychological gear in an undercling flake. That made the clip easy, even though the gear might blow the flake. From there I climbed mostly to the right of the bolts. Lots of sharp but often small edges for your feet. Sometimes sequency or requiring foot switches. The hardest move for me was at the second to last bolt, just above a bulge. Traverse left to that bolt, maybe do a foot switch then up.

Getting down: Scramble left and up the slab to the second of two 2-bolt anchors. The first set is below the lip and a little rusty. The second set is above the lip with slings and rings and is newer and easier to get to. You may want to bring a leaver sling, since the slings in this area seem not to get replaced due to low traffic.

Protection

6 or 7 draws depending on how you start plus slings for the anchors. Optional blue Alien and small wires to clip 2nd bolt (or 3rd, depending on start).

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
There are 9 bolts if you finish by going left at the top to the anchors instead of going above and climbing over the ridge left to the anchors. It feels harder than 10c to go that way though... So that joins Steath Bomber or Ilga Grimpeur or whatever that's called to the left, but unless you view that as the route, the bolts between the two routes are otherwise inexplicably placed.... As for quality, I'll have to go 4*'s. This route has some of the most sustained thin edging at its grade I've ever encountered. It seemed like 90' and 80' of it was between 9+ and 10+. So, it might not be a long route, but it's got as much good, solid climbing as many routes twice as long. Sep 29, 2004