Avg: 2.9 from 9 votes
Routes in East Ridge
|Babyback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Edgemaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Everpresent Lane T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Exile S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Fluorescent Gray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Fountain of Youth T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Galactic Warrior T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Haywire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Ilga Grimpeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Iron Cross T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Kent's Krack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Knack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Stealth Slab Downclimb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13|
|Superguide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Unity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|FA:||Bill DeMallie, Gail McClannahan, 1989|
|Page Views:||1,344 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Ivan Rezucha on Nov 22, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionApproach: As you hike up the gully between the East Ridge and the Nebel Horn ridge you will pass the huge overhangs of Fiddlehead, then a gap in the ridge, and then a steep section with an obvious left facing corner (Everpresent Lane 10d), and then you will arrive at the Stealth Slab. On the right side of the slab is a ledge with a tree about 20 feet up. Scramble onto some blocks and make a couple of moderate moves to the ledge. Scramble right past the tree and down to a comfy belay.
Start: There seem to be two ways to start. There is a bolt a little above the ledge that leads to a right angling ramp and another bolt just right of the ramp. I think this is NOT the correct start, since the second bold is not in a logical place if this were the route. I started further right on some blocks, leaned left to clip the higher bolt, and then traverse left and up to the ramp.
The climbing: There are 6 or 7 bolts depending on the start, not 9 as per Rossiter. Clipping the bolt above the ramp was scary for me. I don't like ramps with no hand holds. So I put in some psychological gear in an undercling flake. That made the clip easy, even though the gear might blow the flake. From there I climbed mostly to the right of the bolts. Lots of sharp but often small edges for your feet. Sometimes sequency or requiring foot switches. The hardest move for me was at the second to last bolt, just above a bulge. Traverse left to that bolt, maybe do a foot switch then up.
Getting down: Scramble left and up the slab to the second of two 2-bolt anchors. The first set is below the lip and a little rusty. The second set is above the lip with slings and rings and is newer and easier to get to. You may want to bring a leaver sling, since the slings in this area seem not to get replaced due to low traffic.
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