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Routes in East Ridge

Babyback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Edgemaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Everpresent Lane T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exile S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fluorescent Gray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fountain of Youth T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Galactic Warrior T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Haywire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ilga Grimpeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Iron Cross T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kent's Krack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stealth Slab Downclimb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Superguide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Healy, Schaivon, Hare, 1981
Page Views: 306 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 1, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route lies between the popular lines Fountain of Youth and Lightning Bolt Aret. While there are a few VERY good sections on this route, the route is otherwise unremarkable, and so it merits 2 stars for this venue, by merits of being "in a small pond" it would probably merit only one star in a larger venue.

Start up the crack system that is the same for both 'The Knack' and 'Fountain Of Youth.' this 5.8- crack reaches a sloping ledge system maybe 5 meters up. From there, work out and right across a moderate but runout face to reach an inset flake that caps a 1-meter roof. Tackle the roof on good holds and jams with good gear overhead, this is probably 8+. Continue up past the roof into a clean perfect dark corner with an RP crack. The last 7 meters of climbing is as good clean and solid as it could get, but all to short. Protect with RPs or similar and top out on great 5.9+ moves, stemming and edging. A tentative leader at this grade might find it difficult to protect solidly at the crux. (think of the Over The Hill dihedral, but with no pins at all)

Up top, place a large nut and traverse to belay to the North, on the bolted anchors for 'Fountain Of Youth.' Rap on a 60m rope, watching the ends.

Protection

A set of stoppers and a set of cams + 1 set RPs or similar small pro.

Photos

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b/c PG13
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b/c PG13
I thought this was very hard for 9+, more like somewhere in difficulty between Over the Hill and the dihedral on Aerial Book. In fact, I hung more on this than when leading Aerial Book! Perhaps that was because I was thinking 5.9 and then got demoralized. Place a couple of small cams in the upper corner to prevent your wires from lifting up as the corner steepens and leans right. The bottom roof was a little spooky, due to the crusty rock and not being able to see where you were going.

We belayed at the very top of the corner by running the rope way back to a good tree. You can place a #3 Camalot at the top of the corner to keep the belayer from tumbling southwards. We then downclimbed with a belay to the south to the anchors for Lightning Bolt ArĂȘte and Iron Cross. Dec 7, 2008