Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Healy, Schaivon, Hare, 1981
Page Views: 913 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 1, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This route lies between the popular lines Fountain of Youth and Lightning Bolt Aret. While there are a few VERY good sections on this route, the route is otherwise unremarkable, and so it merits 2 stars for this venue, by merits of being "in a small pond" it would probably merit only one star in a larger venue.

Start up the crack system that is the same for both 'The Knack' and 'Fountain Of Youth.' this 5.8- crack reaches a sloping ledge system maybe 5 meters up. From there, work out and right across a moderate but runout face to reach an inset flake that caps a 1-meter roof. Tackle the roof on good holds and jams with good gear overhead, this is probably 8+. Continue up past the roof into a clean perfect dark corner with an RP crack. The last 7 meters of climbing is as good clean and solid as it could get, but all to short. Protect with RPs or similar and top out on great 5.9+ moves, stemming and edging. A tentative leader at this grade might find it difficult to protect solidly at the crux. (think of the Over The Hill dihedral, but with no pins at all)

Up top, place a large nut and traverse to belay to the North, on the bolted anchors for 'Fountain Of Youth.' Rap on a 60m rope, watching the ends.

Protection Suggest change

A set of stoppers and a set of cams + 1 set RPs or similar small pro.