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Routes in East Ridge

Babyback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Edgemaster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everpresent Lane T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exile S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fluorescent Gray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fountain of Youth T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Galactic Warrior T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Haywire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ilga Grimpeur S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Cross T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kent's Krack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knack, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stealth Slab Downclimb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Superguide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad
FA: D. Hare, J. Schiavone, 1981
Page Views: 130 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tonya Clement on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


This is an enticing crack along an arĂȘte left of The Knack, Fountain of Youth, Haywire, Superguide. Find this short climb at the top of the East Ridge of Fern Canyon. Hike the Fern Canyon trail til W of the East Ridge. This can be difficult to find: one party found themselves hiking between the East Ridge & Goose and utilized the gap between Fiddlehead & upper East Ridge. Observe potential wildlife closures.

Gain a ramp from near the top of the East Ridge. Wander down and belay at a tree. Use a #0.75 Camalot or #12 BD wire to protect the start. Layback up a crack to a bucket flake. You can move L to a rest to examine/test the tenuous-appearing flakes above. You must use these 2 flakes that to keep it at the 5.7 level. Commit R. A #2 Camalot helps make the next stretch feel more reasonable. This slightly bulging section makes you wonder about the 5.7 rating. Again, you must trust some tenuous-appearing flakes on the face R. Certainly, it has not been heavily traveled. Move up on face holds, laybacking, and high stepping that feels out-there for 5.7. Enjoy a rest at the small ledge above. Move L onto a fun double crack system, one for the feet and one for the hands and gain the top. Ok, 5.7 old world, 5.8 my world. Scramble off L, consider staying roped up. 0.9 stars. No lines.


To a #4 Camalot is useful (#12 BD wire, #1, #2 Camalots, red Alien, #4 Camalot, #1 Camalot, 2 wires) Wires & finger-sized cam for the anchor.


Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
One of the hardest 5.7s I have done. Although my partner lead it, it got my attention about as much as the 5.9 next to it (Unity).
A #4 Camalot is not necessary. A #3 goes just up and in from the same placement and the same stance and is bomber. Take a rack to 3".
The scary flakes held my fat butt, and I bounced on them to check them out, being that I had the luxury of a belay from above. Oct 29, 2006
Boulder, CO
Tradsplatter   Boulder, CO
Echo Tony, stiff lead for the 5.7 rating. Start, same as for Unity, doesn't have great gear but not too scary. Worked up a sweat even on a autumn day getting up and onto the slightly overhanging start of arete. Cams up to #3 Camalot worked well. Oct 30, 2006
George Bracksieck  
Today, Jim Desrosiers and I started from the ground, directly below the main pitch, which was unidentified at the time. This direct start was about 5.7, was heavily lichened, and had some very fragile rock. I placed medium to large Stoppers and green,red, and yellow C3s, among other things.

The climbing flowed into the main pitch, which was overhanging and leaned to the right, with poor feet on the right wall (excellent, varied, strenuous, 5.9-). At one point, I was happy to blindly slap in a #4 and clip it. Nov 24, 2017

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