Avg: 1.8 from 4 votes
|FA:||D. Hare, J. Schiavone, 1981|
|Page Views:||120 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Tonya Clement on Dec 31, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is an enticing crack along an arête left of The Knack, Fountain of Youth, Haywire, Superguide. Find this short climb at the top of the East Ridge of Fern Canyon. Hike the Fern Canyon trail til W of the East Ridge. This can be difficult to find: one party found themselves hiking between the East Ridge & Goose and utilized the gap between Fiddlehead & upper East Ridge. Observe potential wildlife closures.
Gain a ramp from near the top of the East Ridge. Wander down and belay at a tree. Use a #0.75 Camalot or #12 BD wire to protect the start. Layback up a crack to a bucket flake. You can move L to a rest to examine/test the tenuous-appearing flakes above. You must use these 2 flakes that to keep it at the 5.7 level. Commit R. A #2 Camalot helps make the next stretch feel more reasonable. This slightly bulging section makes you wonder about the 5.7 rating. Again, you must trust some tenuous-appearing flakes on the face R. Certainly, it has not been heavily traveled. Move up on face holds, laybacking, and high stepping that feels out-there for 5.7. Enjoy a rest at the small ledge above. Move L onto a fun double crack system, one for the feet and one for the hands and gain the top. Ok, 5.7 old world, 5.8 my world. Scramble off L, consider staying roped up. 0.9 stars. No lines.