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East Ridge Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in East Ridge

L › R R › L A › Z

	Babyback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Edgemaster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Everpresent Lane T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Exile S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Fluorescent Gray T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Fountain of Youth T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Galactic Warrior T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Haywire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Ilga Grimpeur S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Iron Cross T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Kent's Krack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Knack, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Stealth Slab Downclimb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
	Superguide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Elevation:	7,400 ft
GPS:	39.9665, -105.2894 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	23,036 total · 87/month
Shared By:	Michael Walker on Oct 20, 2001
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Description

Wedged between the Goose and Nebel Horn Ridge, the East Ridge rises in two steps separated by a gap. The lower step is the Fiddlehead. The upper step is also divided in a lower and upper section also, conveniently named by their characteristics: the Stealth Slab and the Dihedrals. The Stealth Slab contains many high quality sport routes while the Dihedrals are better visited for its mixed and trad routes. The whole of the East Ridge can be characterised by its Eldo-like sandstone (but with more pebbles it seems) and its beautiful red and green south faces.

The location can be very quiet, almost forgotten, and a pleasant day can be had working from the top of the ridge down or visa versa in solitude. Don't miss out on the views of the Indian Peaks from the ridge crest.

Getting There

No matter where you start, you'll be at least an hour and 1/2 on the trail before you reach the East Ridge climbing routes. Find the Fern Canyon trail from a number of trailheads (the North Shanahan seems easiest) and follow it past the Superfresh block (the obvious overhanging bolt route), which is shortly encountered after the Slab Overlook. You have a choice from here: you can take a faint trail right up into the gully between the East Ridge and Nebel Horn Ridge which brings you past the Fiddlehead, or continue on the Fern Canyon trail to the sandy ridge top and bushwack right along the crest West of Nebel Horn Ridge. Class 3 scrambling and wonderful views of the Indian Peaks bring you to the classic serrated lines of the Upper Dihedrals.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 11 ● Fountain of Youth Trad, Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 11 ● Everpresent Lane Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 11 ● Edgemaster Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 3 ● Lightning Bolt Arete Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 8 ● Iron Cross Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 5 ● Ilga Grimpeur Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 12 ● Fluorescent Gray Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 3 ● Kent's Krack Trad, TR
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 6 ● Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 4 ● Exile Sport