Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Wedged between the Goose and Nebel Horn Ridge, the East Ridge rises in two steps separated by a gap. The lower step is the Fiddlehead. The upper step is also divided in a lower and upper section also, conveniently named by their characteristics: the Stealth Slab and the Dihedrals. The Stealth Slab contains many high quality sport routes while the Dihedrals are better visited for its mixed and trad routes. The whole of the East Ridge can be characterised by its Eldo-like sandstone (but with more pebbles it seems) and its beautiful red and green south faces.

The location can be very quiet, almost forgotten, and a pleasant day can be had working from the top of the ridge down or visa versa in solitude. Don't miss out on the views of the Indian Peaks from the ridge crest.

Getting There

No matter where you start, you'll be at least an hour and 1/2 on the trail before you reach the East Ridge climbing routes. Find the Fern Canyon trail from a number of trailheads (the North Shanahan seems easiest) and follow it past the Superfresh block (the obvious overhanging bolt route), which is shortly encountered after the Slab Overlook. You have a choice from here: you can take a faint trail right up into the gully between the East Ridge and Nebel Horn Ridge which brings you past the Fiddlehead, or continue on the Fern Canyon trail to the sandy ridge top and bushwack right along the crest West of Nebel Horn Ridge. Class 3 scrambling and wonderful views of the Indian Peaks bring you to the classic serrated lines of the Upper Dihedrals.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
No reflection on you Michael, but I think this is a terrible name for this crag (I understand it is Rossiter's term). East Ridge of what, Nebel Horn? How can an East Ridge trend more or less North-South? I would hope we can come up with a better name for this crag. Oct 23, 2001
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
George, I couldn't agree more! It almost seems an inside joke or something. I only refer to it as such b/c of Rossiter.

BTW, speaking of inside jokes, the Bean Liquer wall in Boulder Canyon didn't get it's name from a liquer, he-he, but "Bean Licker" - yes, THAT bean....Perhaps Rossiter knows something we don't.... Oct 28, 2001