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Routes in East Ridge

Babyback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Edgemaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Everpresent Lane T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exile S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fluorescent Gray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fountain of Youth T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Galactic Warrior T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Haywire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ilga Grimpeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Iron Cross T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kent's Krack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stealth Slab Downclimb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Superguide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: D. Hare, J. Schiavone, P. Healy, 1981
Page Views: 1,051 total · 6/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on Aug 6, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This beautiful, splitter dihedral crack is located just left of Fluorescent Gray, near the bottom of the East Ridge, above the gap and the top of Fiddlehead. In the summer, it stays in the shade till around noon.

The long, clean, right-facing dihedral is steeper than it looks and includes some really cool climbing. It has lots of wild, reachy moves to jugs, laybacks, and general fun! It protects well and there are plenty of nice stem rests along the way. The crux is near the top of the corner as the dihedral curves up left to an arete. From the arete, head up and left along cracks to the tree above.

Rappel down from slings around the tree.

Protection

Standard rack including cams up to a #3 Camalot. Extra medium-sized nuts are nice too.

Photos

Lovely, well-protected climbing, and a gimme at the guidebook grade. Oct 21, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Take several smaller nuts with you and use them at the crux up top. The rock may not hold the really small stuff, so pro it up. Sep 27, 2009
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
I was happy to have a blue and black Alien (or similar size) for the top. Nov 19, 2013

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