Lightning Bolt Arete
Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Routes in East Ridge
|Babyback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Edgemaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Everpresent Lane T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Exile S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Fluorescent Gray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Fountain of Youth T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Galactic Warrior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Haywire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Ilga Grimpeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Iron Cross T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Kent's Krack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Knack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Stealth Slab Downclimb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13|
|Superguide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Unity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|FA:||will look it up and add later|
|Page Views:||1,059 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Mottinger on Sep 4, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionA pretty good route if you could only consider the second pitch. The first is forgettable.
P1: Start near a bowed tree below the second dihedral. Look for a fixed pin about 15' up the pitch. Ascend the surprisingly difficult corner (5.10) up to a ledge. Move left to a set of cold shuts.
P2: You'll only need QDs and a #2.5 (ideal) or #3-#3.5 Friend for a horizontal break. The moves are increasingly difficult up to the crux (between the last two bolts). The climbing is pretty nice on the face and arete.
You can rap with a 60m from the cold shuts at the top, but may have to downclimb a few feet. We had a 70m and had spare rope on the ground.