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Lightning Bolt Arete [Suggest Change]
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
Routes in East Ridge
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Babyback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Edgemaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Everpresent Lane T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Exile S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Fluorescent Gray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Fountain of Youth T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Galactic Warrior T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Haywire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ilga Grimpeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Iron Cross T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kent's Krack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Knack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stealth Slab Downclimb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Superguide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Sport |
| FA: | will look it up and add later |
| Page Views: | 1,088 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Sep 4, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click herebouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for the latest in raptor closures.
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click herebouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description [Suggest Change]
A pretty good route if you could only consider the second pitch. The first is forgettable.
P1: Start near a bowed tree below the second dihedral. Look for a fixed pin about 15' up the pitch. Ascend the surprisingly difficult corner (5.10) up to a ledge. Move left to a set of cold shuts.
P2: You'll only need QDs and a #2.5 (ideal) or #3-#3.5 Friend for a horizontal break. The moves are increasingly difficult up to the crux (between the last two bolts). The climbing is pretty nice on the face and arete.
You can rap with a 60m from the cold shuts at the top, but may have to downclimb a few feet. We had a 70m and had spare rope on the ground.
P1: Start near a bowed tree below the second dihedral. Look for a fixed pin about 15' up the pitch. Ascend the surprisingly difficult corner (5.10) up to a ledge. Move left to a set of cold shuts.
P2: You'll only need QDs and a #2.5 (ideal) or #3-#3.5 Friend for a horizontal break. The moves are increasingly difficult up to the crux (between the last two bolts). The climbing is pretty nice on the face and arete.
You can rap with a 60m from the cold shuts at the top, but may have to downclimb a few feet. We had a 70m and had spare rope on the ground.
Protection [Suggest Change]
You'll need some small cams and wires for the first pitch and about 6-7 draws for the second pitch plus a #2.5 or 3.5 Friend.
Around Boulder, CO
Anyway, if you do the route as a single pitch, which is far and away the best way, take a red Camalot for a meter below the pin, clip that, the pin, then go up to the ledge, and skip the anchor. Clip the first bolt with a 1' draw and continue. A bomber #3 Camalot fits right about where you'd want it in a line for the rope, all bolts considered, but in reality, it is only about 3 feet above the last bolt and getting to the next bolt is not hard climbing. I placed it to dump it more so than to use it. You don't need it at all.
You will want a 2' sling for that weird bolt placed way out left that could have just as easily not been way over there, then finish on the arete....
A good route if done in a single pitch. Your second has to follow, because the anchors are NOT placed for a lower-off. You can't clean on rap if you want to pull your rope in the end. Oct 29, 2006
Around Boulder, CO
Broomfield, CO