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Routes in East Ridge

Babyback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Edgemaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Everpresent Lane T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exile S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fluorescent Gray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fountain of Youth T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Galactic Warrior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Haywire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ilga Grimpeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Iron Cross T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kent's Krack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stealth Slab Downclimb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Superguide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 87 total, 0/month
Shared By: Michael Walker on Oct 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

So you're feeling sick? Maybe climbing with a rank amateur? Feel the need to tick EVERY climb in the guidebook? This is a short one, won't hurt you and the view from the top earns one star.

Begin at the base of The Knack (see that route description), drop your pack and gear up. Then scramble upslope to find the start of Babyback. Located at almost the top of the Dihedral area of the East Ridge, find the first splitter crack to the right of the end of the ridge. The crack starts from a "raised area sporting trees" above the gully and requires a little scrambling to reach the base. Heck, once you've climbed to the base of the crack you're halfway to the top already!

Begin with some fine lie backs and hand jams, cruising 20' or so until the crack widens beyond fist size. This is the "crux" and serves to make the finish interesting. If this was 100' feet long there would be a line to climb it. But it's not, and wow, at the top already? Set up a quick anchor in convenient cracks above the climb and enjoy a very fine view of the Indian Peaks to your west and the Goose below and east.

The easiest way off is to move your belay East down the ridgetop to the two bolt anchor for Fountain of Youth. You can do this safely by easing down a wide crack/slot separating the Babyback rib and the Fountain of Youth rib. It's a little awkward, and being roped may make the downclimb a little less stressful, but you may not feel it's necessary. Rap back to your waiting pack at the base of the Knack.

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Tradsplatter
Boulder, CO
 
Tradsplatter   Boulder, CO
 
Long hike for a little crack, but it was fun. Oct 30, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.5
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.5
A great route if it were only longer than 25'. Takes cams from 1.5" to 3.5" in sequence. Nice climbing with great stems and lie-backs. Good jams on the 2nd half. Oct 29, 2006