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Routes in Fiddlehead

A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fertile Crescent. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Sport
FA: Michael Brothers, 1988
Page Views: 3,109 total, 16/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Castles is the amazing looking flat face/arete first seen when one walks toward the lower East Ridge from the main trail...Crank up the dihedral and balance through some wild, tweaky moves to the arete and a tough third clip. Do a powerful move off the arete, back onto the face and set up for yet another tricky move past flakes to the anchor.

Very fine!

There are hard, yet elegant moves at and past each bolt with potential for some hairy falls! At least one good climber has been hurt on this one...

Protection

Big nut at start, 4 bolts, 2 bolt/fixed wires and biners lower off (kind of sketchy! too cheap for hangers!!).

Photos

Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
All of the bolts on this were replaced today. Huge thanks to OSMP and to the ASCA for supplying the hardware. Oct 22, 2017
Alan Doak
boulder, co
  5.12a
Alan Doak   boulder, co
  5.12a
Really weird, someone stole the biners from the anchor. They wouldn't have been able to lower off the cables, they would have had to top out on Shadow Sickness and come down that anchor (if it existed), or top out and scramble off. We left an old junk biner up there, the next party might want to bring another to add to the anchor. Oct 5, 2014
Alan Doak
boulder, co
  5.12a
Alan Doak   boulder, co
  5.12a
Great climb! I thought the bolts were well placed... the cruxes were well protected and the runout bits were easier. The anchor at the top seemed pretty reasonable: the cables were in good shape and there were washers and glue keeping them in place. Oct 1, 2007