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Castles Made of Sand
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 12
votes
Routes in Fiddlehead
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A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Fernal Crescent T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Northwest Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sol Asylum T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Wall of Eyes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Michael Brothers, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 4,790 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Castles is the amazing looking flat face/arete first seen when one walks toward the lower East Ridge from the main trail...Crank up the dihedral and balance through some wild, tweaky moves to the arete and a tough third clip. Do a powerful move off the arete, back onto the face and set up for yet another tricky move past flakes to the anchor.
Very fine!
There are hard, yet elegant moves at and past each bolt with potential for some hairy falls! At least one good climber has been hurt on this one...
Very fine!
There are hard, yet elegant moves at and past each bolt with potential for some hairy falls! At least one good climber has been hurt on this one...
Protection
A big nut at the start, 4 bolts, (the anchor used to be 2 bolt/fixed wires and biners lower off (kind of sketchy! too cheap for hangers!!)).
Per Tristan Bradford: there is now a 2 bolt anchor with rings.
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