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Routes in Fiddlehead

A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fertile Crescent. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 539 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


This is not a new rote, but it is not published in Rossiter's Book. It is plugged here in hopes of getting more info about the route and its history for the next guidebook. It is a pretty good route, and probably about 5.9.

The route, Chains Of Love (12b), starts in from a dihedral down and left of the bolted overhang. The dihedral may be superseded in fame by the later bolted overhang, but it is not displaced. The dihedral goes to the top of the wall and can be climbed to the top. It is a good climb on its own merit and deserves more attention that it gets. Although I did it a few years ago and recall it being quite tall, I do not recall how tall.

To descend, my notes say: "Up and Over the top, up ridge to North, rap from large tree."


Climb the entire dihedral up and left of Chains Of Love to the top of the wall.


A standard rack to 3.5". There are some considerable runouts.


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